Setting up a terrarium is a fun creative project for plant lovers and miniature indoor garden enthusiasts. It brings in a touch of nature without taking up a lot of space in your home. Closed terrariums can be elaborate metal ‘greenhouses’ with glass walls and a waterproof base or a simple glass jar you have handy at home. If you are a beginner, I recommend medium to large glass terrariums with lids. A lid insures adequate humidity for some hard to grow tropical plants in our dry environment. Other advantages include: Less maintenance than an open terrarium, the planting space is easier to work with, the plants will take longer to outgrow their space and you will have a front row seat to see all the changes that occur over time.
This article covers terrarium building for plants only. If you are planning a reptile enclosure, please consult your local pet store for your pet’s specific needs.
Before you begin your project take some time to read about rainforests and the growing conditions in those areas of the world. You are going to be building a mini rain forest!
Collect Your Supplies
Gather all your supplies before starting to build your terrarium.
You will need:
Gloves, a pair of long nosed tweezers – the longer the better, scissors, a small watering can filled with water, leca (lightweight and durable) and a small bag of activated charcoal. Your soil mix (see below for recipe), plants and decorative accessories such as mini figurines, driftwood and rock. Sphagnum moss, sheet moss or cushion moss and window screening.
Cover your work area with a plastic tablecloth or very large garbage bag. This can get messy!
Clean your terrarium with a 2 cup hot water and ½ cup vinegar solution to sterilize the interior. Dry thoroughly and set aside.
Mix the soil. There are many terrarium soil recipes and most use the same basic ingredients and are very good. Good drainage is key to a successful terrarium.
1 part tropical plant soil
1 part dampened cocoa fibre
1 part fine orchid bark
½ part activated charcoal
½ part horticultural sand
A handful or two of worm castings.
Mix well and add just enough water to dampen it, then mix again.
I like to use activated charcoal because it filters and removes toxins/bacteria from the soil and water. It also helps to prevent odors. Do not use charcoal that is used for grilling. It contains petroleum.
Decorative Accessories: Over the past few years there has been a resurgence of interest in creating fairy gardens. This makes miniature garden accessories readily available for just about any project, including setting up a closed terrarium. Other accessories include larger rock such as black or red lava rock, pieces of driftwood, slate, stone, cork bark and aquarium accent pieces.
Mold can be a problem when you overwater. If you have a reoccurring mold problem, add a few springtails to your terrarium. They are a deterrent and a solution. Springtails are tiny insects that love to eat mold. They will not eat your plants. If this makes you a bit squeamish, you can also air out the container periodically and remove any moldy driftwood or accessories. Use a cotton swab and dab the mold with full strength 3 % hydrogen peroxide. Activated charcoal also keeps mold and mildew at bay but is not a full proof remedy.
Plants
The following is a list of tropical plants that do very well in a closed terrarium. The plants you choose should like the same growing conditions. Most on the list like a bright room but do not put your terrarium in full sun. This will heat up the interior and kill the plants. It is important to start with a few small slow growing plants, (2 inch pot diameter), or rooted cuttings so you can enjoy watching them grow. Do not be afraid to prune them back at any time.
Nerve Plant – Fittonia
Jewel Orchids
Friendship Plant (Pilea involucrata) and Silver Sparkle Pilea (PIlea glauca)
Frosty Fern Spike Moss (Selaginella kraussiana ‘Variegated’)
Venus Fly Traps - Open the terrarium occasionally to feed. They will eat spring tails or you can feed them ants, flies and tiny spiders. Only use distilled water or rainwater when watering.
Creeping Fig – green and variegated. Root branch cuttings in water.
Crocodile Fern
Cryptanthus – also known as Earth Stars. They grow in the rainforests of Brazil!
Maidenhair Ferns
Polka Dot Plant – pink, red and silver. They require bright, indirect light.
Prayer Plants – for larger closed terrariums.
Pothos – for larger closed terrariums. Prune regularly – low light.
Baby Tears – This is the Baby Tears with very tiny leaves forming a low mat in the pot. – (Soleirolia soleirolii)
English ivy varieties – Start with small rooted cuttings. Green and variegated cultivars.
Watermelon Begonia – (Pellionaria repens)
Artillery Fern – (Pilea microphylla)
Setting Up Your Terrarium
Add a 2.5 cm depth of leca to the bottom of your container. Leca will absorb any drained water, making it available for the plants in the future. An established terrarium will rarely need watering.
Insert the screen so it covers the leca and goes up the sides of the terrarium just a bit. This will ensure the soil does not go into drainage area.
Top the screen with a 1.25 cm depth of activated charcoal.
Add your soil mix at double the depth of the false bottom. You can add more if you feel it’s necessary.
(Some people slope the soil up at the back of the terrarium. This is dependent on the viewing angle. It’s all up to you!)
Place any large accessories. You may want to try your design outside the terrarium first. Do not be afraid to try different designs.
Place the plants. Do not overcrowd. Remember, less is more. They will grow! Use your long tweezers to help place small rooted cuttings. They also come in handy to place tiny pieces of moss.
Water lightly and close the lid. Water every two to three weeks until established. Do Not Overwater! Regularly open the terrarium after establishment once every two weeks. The most important thing to remember is to water lightly; just enough to keep the soil layer slightly damp – never soggy. The water will cycle in your closed terrarium through condensation.
Add any remaining accessories and close with the lid.
Place your terrarium in a bright to medium bright room.
You can also provide adequate light conditions for your terrarium by buying a single stand LED grow light and timer. Twelve hours on; twelve hours off is recommended.
Things You Might Like to Know
If you do not have a lid for a favorite terrarium, take a measurement of the top opening and purchase a round piece of acrylic just large enough in diameter to fit or go over the opening of the container. If you choose, drill a couple of small holes in the acrylic lid. This will slightly aerate the container and not affect the water cycle.
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‘Even though February is the shortest month of the year, sometimes it seems like the longest.’ Lorraine Snelling
On one hand, truer words were never spoken. On the other, February can be exciting. Really! February is what you make it.
There are many positives about February. If you enjoy winter sports, love Valentine’s Day, bird watching and enjoy photography, it offers unending opportunities. Some people even enjoy outdoor winter camping/glamping and ice fishing. Later in the month, Family Day comes along and gives us a much needed long weekend. For gardeners February is full of promise. They know that out there somewhere are greenhouses (like Floral Acres) that are busy seeding their first 2024 crops of perennials, annuals, vegetables and herbs. It’s a time to cozy up by the fire and dream about and plan your spring 2024 garden.
Part of my February spring planning is deciding what varieties of tomatoes I am going to grow. One must consider many things; disease resistance, color, texture, slicing, paste, canning, size and most important – flavour.
It is fun though to search out those elusive perfect tomato varieties because in Saskatchewan there is nothing more sacred to the taste buds as that first bite of a fresh, home grown tomato.
This year I am choosing to grow heirloom tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum). A heirloom tomato is defined as an open-pollinated variety that has been cultivated for at least 40 years. Some heirloom seeds have been passed down from generation to generation of gardening families. Open pollination is best described as pollination by natural means – by pollinators such as bees and hummingbirds and sometimes a gardener wielding a soft paintbrush! Tomatoes are also self-pollinating.
Heirloom tomatoes come in all sizes and shapes. Some are determinate and others are indeterminate. Determinate tomatoes grow to a certain height, flower and fruit. They usually do not need staking and do not need to be pruned. Indeterminate tomatoes keep growing and fruiting all season until the first hard frost. They are usually tall and need staking or caging. Once the plant matures and starts to produce flowers and fruit, remove the suckers that come out of the V between the branches and main stem. Remove any branches that are growing or hanging close to the ground. You can create multi-stemmed plants by not removing the sucker that occurs just below the first set of flowers and fruit.
For those gardeners that are short on garden space, determinate heirlooms can be grown in 45 cm diameter pots and indeterminate in 60 cm diameter pots. Make sure the pots have good drainage.
The very best thing about heirloom tomatoes is their taste. Many hybrid tomatoes we find in stores today sacrifice taste for longer shelf life, disease resistance and the quest for a perfectly red, round tomato.
Most heirloom tomatoes have a unique skin color when ripe– burgundy, dark brick red, yellow/green, deep purple, yellow, green and golden orange. They also come in various sizes and shapes.
The fruit produces seed that remains true to the parent plant. In other words heirloom tomato seed can be saved and planted from year to year knowing the plants will come back true to the original parent plant. Heirloom seed can usually be stored up to 10 years.
Other information you should know about heirlooms!
They are lower yielding than modern hybrids. Then plant more!
High in Vitamin A, C, antioxidants, potassium and fibre.
Minimal disease resistance. Requiring a bit more observation and care but the result is worth it.
Many heirlooms are originally from Germany and Russia and can get by with a bit cooler growing temperatures.
Days to maturity from transplant (to the outdoors) may be longer than hybrid tomatoes.
Heirlooms can be thin skinned so some varieties are more prone to cracking and cat-facing (scarring on the bottom of the fruit.) This is mainly caused by overwatering.
For me this is way down on the list of ‘negatives’ but must be mentioned. Heirloom varieties do not produce the perfectly shaped tomato that we all have become accustom to finding in the grocery store.
Cultural Requirements of Heirloom Tomatoes
Full sun.
Like any tomato, heirlooms like a rich, slightly acidic soil. Add some compost and peat to your growing area in spring. You not only want a nutritive soil but an aerated soil is also very important.
Water at ground level in the morning. Overhead watering will spread any lurking diseases. Do keep the soil consistently moist. This can be best accomplished by using driplines. Mulch – once the soil has warmed up in the spring and you’ve planted your tomatoes apply a 2 inch layer of mulch around each one. Do not mulch too close to the stems. Good mulches include compost, tree leaves saved from last fall and grass clippings. Do not use grass clippings from a lawn that has been treated with pesticides and herbicides.
Fertilize with a tomato or vegetable fertilizer; water soluble or slow release. Make sure the first number (nitrogen) is not too high. Follow the application rates on the labels.
Provide good air circulation to prevent foliar diseases.
Keep your pruning tools clean (Lysol or an alcohol -water mix.)
Inspect leaves often for signs of disease.
Space plants to allow for good air circulation.
I’ve chosen to highlight some great tasting Heirloom tomato varieties/cultivars. Enjoy trying them out in your garden!
Cherokee Purple
Cherokee Purple is a beefsteak heirloom so makes a wonderful slicing fruit. Indeterminate. It has a very sweet flavor with tangy, smoky undertones. When ripe, the skin is a crimson purple. The interior is purple/brown. 72 days to maturity from transplant. This tomato can grow 2-3 m and fruits from mid-summer to the first hard frost.
Black Cherry
Black Cherry – An indeterminate cherry tomato with a delicious, sweet, rich, and full tomato flavor. When ripe, this heirloom is 2.5 cm with a deep purple mahogany brown skin. Can be grown in a container. Plant size is 1.5 m x 1.22 m. 64 days to maturity from transplant. An actual disease resistant heirloom tomato.
Brandywine
Brandywine - An indeterminate beefsteak. 75 - 80 days to maturity from transplant. Brandywines comes in many different colors. The yellow is the most productive and the red is the most flavorful. They all have a variation of an exotic sweet flavor with spicy undertones. Brandywines produce large fruit that will vary in weight with the variety planted. They are low in acidity, juicy and firm. The mature size of the plants range anywhere from 1m – 3m (again dependent on the variety/cultivar).
Carbon – 80 days to maturity from transplant. Indeterminate. This plant will grow 2-3 m in height. A very dark, black tomato with a rich flavor and meaty texture. Fruit weight: 283 to 396 grams.
Highly productive over a long period of time.
Resists cracking and cat facing. Great for salads and sandwiches.
Mr. Stripey
Mr. Stripey – Indeterminate. 80 days to maturity from transplant. Maximum height of 2½ m with a 1 m spread. Mr. Stripy is a low acid heirloom with small leaves and a skin color that is a mix of red and yellow. The red and yellow also blend into the meat of the fruit. The flesh of the fruit is low acid, soft, juicy and tastes very sweet.
Aunt Ruby’s German Green – Is a beefsteak cultivar that takes 80 days to reach maturity from transplant. Indeterminate. Large flattened, round fruit with a delicious sweet, fruity, spicy flavor. Green skin when ripe with some yellow and pink blushing. Bushy strong plants. 225 – 300 gram fruit. Fruits ripen successively over many days. Aunt Ruby’s will reach a height of 2 m. Provide a large, strong tomato cage.
Mortgage Lifter
Mortgage Lifter – A very large indeterminate beefsteak tomato that has been grown since the 1930s. In ideal growing conditions the fruit can weigh up to 1.8 kg! The plant grows very tall sometimes topping out at 3 m. Provide a very strong trellis or cage. When ripe the tomato has a pinkish red skin with the flesh also being pinky red, meaty, low in acid and produces very few seeds. The taste is sweet and delicious.
Things You May Want to Know
Tomato leaves, roots and stems are toxic to cats, dogs, horses, pet birds and mildly toxic to humans.
I encourage you to Google ‘Heirloom Tomatoes’ if you are thinking of growing a few. Our article is just the tip of the iceberg regarding a wealth of information on all aspects of growing and harvesting seed from these incredibly tasty fruits.
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How To Build a Kokedama!
Lovers of Japanese gardens no doubt have heard or even put together a Kokedama. The word Kokedama comes from the Japanese words for moss and ball. It is a gardening art form that is expressed through the growing of a tropical plant in a moss covered soil ball that is wrapped in water proof string or fishing line. It is also called ‘The Poor Man’s Bonsai’. Kokedama can be displayed individually or as a group hanging or on a decorative surface such as a tray, plate or low bowl.
The 2-3 year lifespan of the plants used in Kokedama is dependent on good cultural practices ( watering, fertilizing and pruning) and the type of plant used. In most cases the plant will eventually outgrow the moss ball but most can be trimmed back to delay the growth. You can also move the plant to a larger ball or use it for propagation purposes.
First, determine where you want to display your Kokedama. Are you going to make one or many? Do not locate them in direct sun ( a bright room is ok), near furnace vents or in the way of window and door drafts. Will you be hanging your creation or enjoying it on a bookshelf or coffee table?
Gather Your Supplies - You will need –
A table covered with plastic – this can become a messy project!
Your plant (s). Choose plants with small root systems or slow growing plants. Tropicals in a two and four inch pot (5-10 cm) are recommended. (See suggested plant lists below.)
A medium, deep Rubbermaid container. This is where you create the balls and cut down on the mess.
Tropical plant soil with a small amount of perlite. You want the soil to be somewhat airy but moisture retentive so it will hold together. Two cups of soil will make a 4 inch Kokedama.
Gloves, scissors, water
Pre-moistened Sphagnum Moss – green or tan colored natural moss. Do not use plastic backed sheet moss, artificial or dyed moss.
Waterproof string or fishing line. Dental floss also works well. Avoid using bio-degradable hemp, jute or cotton twine.
Make the Soil Ball
Put your soil into the Rubbermaid container. Add water slowly to the soil until it just holds together. Firmly pack the soil as you form it into a ball. To test for firmness, lightly toss the ball into the air a couple of times; over the Rubbermaid container!
Remove as much soil from the root ball of the plant as you can. You can also gently run some warm water over the roots to dislodge any soil.
Gently pull the ball in half using both hands. Lay the plant roots in the centre of one half making sure the plant leaves are above the ball. Place the other half of the soil ball overtop the roots and gently press the two halves together. At this point you may want to mist the soil ball to ensure it is sticking together and set aside.
Join the pre-moistened moss pieces by overlapping them, one slightly over the other. Be generous with the moss. You want to form a square that will cover the ball and meet at the plant stem on top. Position the soil ball in the middle of the moss and gather it up around the ball.
Wrap the ball with the cord or fishing line in all directions making sure you make some passes over the cords starting point on the ball. You are wrapping to make sure the sphagnum moss stays in place so there will be quite a few overlapping wraps to achieve this. Securely tie off the end of the cord.
Soak the ball in a bowl of warm water for about 5- 10 minutes. The Kokedama will be quite heavy. Make sure the ball is allowed to drain and you are ready to display! Ideal spots to display Kokedama are in the kitchen or a bathroom (with a window) where humidity is high.
If you will be hanging the Kokedama, tie a length of twine onto the top of the wrapped ball cord and hang from a secure location. Hang Kokedama in odd numbered groups to make a striking display.
A beautiful way to display Kokedama is to use a simple macramé hanger and fit a decorative plate in the hanger base. The Kokedama can sit on the plate.
The planted moss ball can be also be displayed on a flat wood base with decorative rock, small driftwood pieces and more moss. If the plant eventually begins to flop over, do not hesitate to provide a wooden skewer as a support. Curly willow or natural twigs can also be used.
When the ball begins to feel light, water again by soaking in a bowl of warm water.
Once a month, add a small amount of water- soluble tropical plant fertilizer to the bowl of water.
Tropical Plants Recommended for Kokedama
Shade and Semi-Shade
Pothos, English Ivy, Rabbits Foot Fern, Grape Ivy, Creeping Fig, Prayer Plant.
Bright Light Location
Variegated Ivies, Spider Plant, Small Tree – Form Ficus, Nerve Plant (Fittonia), Purple Waffle Plant, Money Plant, Peace Lily, Brake Fern, Button Fern, Asparagus Fern, Emerald Ripple Peperomia.
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It’s time to fill your house with the wonderful scents and sounds of Christmas! Scents of nature are especially appealing so add some eucalyptus and magnolia to your decorating list. Magnolia brings visual and textural excitement to your decorations while eucalyptus does all that and smells wonderful too. The scent of Eucalyptus can be quite strong and comes from the oil in each leaf. It is described as a refreshing and invigorating cool mint with notes of honey. There are many species of Eucalyptus available during the Christmas season; seeded, branches with wispy long leaves, some with spiral leaf attachments and those with small, medium or large leaves. You can use these branches fresh or preserve them so they last well past the Christmas season. Be aware that the glycerin preservation process can take some time so buy magnolia and eucalyptus early.
But First! -A Word About Using Fresh Bunches
Eucalyptus and magnolia branches are sold in bunches and need conditioning (hydrating) before using fresh in table centres, arrangements and wreaths. Prior to your purchase, make sure you have a couple of large vases filled with room temperature water at the ready back home.
When you get home, untie the bunches, diagonally trim the bottom inch off the stems and strip or prune off the leaves that will be under the water in your vase. Lightly mash the ends of each branch with a hammer for improved water uptake. Immerse the bare ends in the water. Leave them to soak for 1-2 days before using in fresh arrangements. Sometimes the eucalyptus water can become light brown. This is normal.
If you have indoor live arrangements, I urge you to keep some eucalyptus and magnolia aside in a separate vase for touch-ups if needed. When changing the water, wash the vase with soap and water, rinse thoroughly and then refill with water. Fresh eucalyptus in a vase lasts about 3 weeks or more with proper care. Change out the water once or twice a week.
Three Ways to Preserve Eucalyptus and Magnolia Branches
Drying
Eucalyptus branches will dry on their own after three weeks to a lovely sage green color; even in a vase of water. To slow down this process, fresh cut the stems, mash the ends and change out the water once a week.
If you are wanting to dry the branches as soon as you get home, the best method is to hang each bunch upside down in a cool, dark and dry room. This method can take 2-3 weeks. Once dried, the leaves will be somewhat discolored. Dried eucalyptus branches are fragile, so handle with care.
Magnolia branches can also be hung upside down to dry or individual leaves can be laid down flat on a wire drying rack. When dry, they will turn brown and be on the crispy side.
Glycerination
Magnolia and eucalyptus (along with boxwood and cedar branches) are best preserved with glycerin to retain some of their color and flexibility. This method is called glycerination.
Glycerin is a colorless, water-soluble, gelatinous compound that is created from animal and botanical sources.
The water in each leaf is replaced by the glycerin mixture. The preserved branches or leaves remain soft and pliable and will last months if not years.
Glycerin is non-toxic and safe for humans and pets. Always follow label directions.
Basic Glycerin Preservation Recipe
Use vegetable or technical grade glycerin. Mix 2 cups of hot water (57 degrees C) and 1 cup glycerin. Stir for 1 minute. The mixture will be clear.
Any unused mixture can be stored in an airtight glass jar and lasts a long time. Store the jar out of the sun in a cool, dark place.
Preserving Magnolia and Eucalyptus Branches with Glycerin
(This method also works for Cedar and Boxwood boughs)
Vase Method
Make a fresh 45 degree cut at the base of each branch and mash the ends with a hammer. Immediately immerse in the glycerin water. The branches will be preserved after 2-6 weeks in the glycerin water. Change out the glycerin water once a week. Magnolia branches will be preserved when the leaves turn golden brown.
Large Shallow Pan Method
Individual magnolia leaves and small eucalyptus twigs –Cut the ends of the eucalyptus twigs and the magnolia leaf stems at a 45 degree angle, crush the ends with a hammer then submerge in a large shallow pan of glycerin water. The crushing of the stems increases the absorption of the water. Try not to let the leaves touch each other but this is almost impossible. You can place them in layers with the second layer being perpendicular to the bottom layer. Use a tray or plate to weigh down the leaves and keep them submerged at all times. Soak for 2-6 days. Check daily for progress. New leaves absorb the glycerin water mix more readily than older leaves. Keep the pan in a cool, dry place out of direct sun. When well preserved the magnolia leaves will turn golden brown. Once preserved, rinse the leaves off with warm water and dry. The eucalyptus will darken slightly as it is preserved.
After Christmas you can store the preserved magnolia and eucalyptus leaves between sheets of wax paper or tissue in a dark, dry space.
Mod Podge
Yes, Mod Podge! This preservation method involves a bit of work but the end result is worth it. This method also allows magnolia leaves to keep their dark green shiny appearance!
Magnolia - If you are decorating with individual magnolia leaves, clean each leaf separately with a damp cloth and dry well. Apply Mod Podge Satin (Clear) to the front of each leaf with a foam brush. Let dry. Apply a layer of mod podge to the back. Lay the leaves on a piece of wax paper and let them dry overnight.
The next morning spray each leaf, front and back, with two coats of Mod Podge Clear Acrylic Sealer. Let them dry between coats and they will be ready to use on all your Christmas projects!
Additional things you should know!
Eucalyptus is highly toxic to most animals and humans. Magnolia is not toxic to humans, dogs and cats.
You can add magnolia and eucalyptus fresh branches to outdoor arrangements. Do be aware that freezing temperatures may alter leaf color but the difference in texture between the evergreens and the leafy sections will still remain interesting.
When making large fresh Christmas arrangements and table centres, always make a fresh cut on each bough piece that you add to your creation.]]>A fun and easy Christmas project to start at the beginning of November is forcing paperwhite bulbs (Narcissus papyraceus). Paperwhites belong to the Narcissus tazetta group and their flowers resemble small sprays of white daffodils on one or more stems per bulb. Paperwhite flowers produce a distinctive fragrance that you either love or hate. What side you are on is only determined by forcing a few bulbs into flower. The paperwhite varieties used for forcing are predominantly white but others come in pale yellow or yellow-white cultivars.
What is ‘forcing’?
Forcing means to grow a bulb that produces flowers out of season; usually after a period of chilling. Bulbs that can be forced are amaryllis, tulips, crocus, mini iris (Iris reticulate), daffodils, grape hyacinths and fragrant hyacinths.
Unlike other bulbs used for forcing, paperwhites do not need to be exposed to a chilling period or simulated winter. These bulbs are native to Greece, Portugal, Morocco and Algeria so do not need to be chilled to bloom. Because of this, they can be grouped in a decorative pot with little fuss and started right away.
There are two methods used to force paperwhites:
Soil Forcing Method
Choose a plastic container that has drainage holes and a catch basin for draining water. This also allows you to water from the bottom of the pot. You can insert all of this into a decorative ceramic container which provides added stability. Provide a shallow layer of tropical plant soil mixed with a cactus succulent soil mix for fast drainage (10-14 cm. of soil in the pot.) Remove the outer brown onion skin husk from each bulb and settle them on the top of the soil pointed end up leaving about 2.5 cm between each bulb. The tips should be just peeking over the rim of the pot. Water with warm water from below. At this time you can add a shallow layer of decorative stone to the top around the bulbs or lay a covering of sphagnum moss around the rim of the decorative ceramic pot to finish off the look. Keep the soil moist but do not saturate it. Too much water results in root rot.
If you have a cool bright room in your home, place the planted bulb container in that room for about one to two weeks. When roots begin to form, you can move the container out to a bright warmer room.
Plant a new pot of paperwhites every ten days for continuous bloom through the Christmas season.
Water Planting Method
Choose a container that does not have drainage holes. Most people choose low glass containers so they can watch the rooting process. Antique crystal bowls are especially classy and provide some weight for stability as well. Fill about half way up the bowl with small grade rock, marbles, clear or colored crystals. If you use rock, wash it first before adding to the bowl to avoid cloudy water. Remove the outer onion skin husk from each bulb. Place the bulbs (pointed end up) on top of the rock/crystals. Put in just enough warm water so that it almost touches the bases of the bulbs. Keep the water at this level until roots start to form. Do not let them sit in the water; they will rot. Once the roots have formed, lower the water level again, so just the roots are in the water. Place the container in a cool bright room for one to two weeks as the roots form. When roots are showing, bring it back out into a bright warm room to watch them grow and produce their beautiful blooms.
All in all it usually takes from 4 to 6 weeks from ‘planting’ for the flowers to begin to bloom.
The warmer the home, the faster forced bulbs will bloom. Cooler temperatures are always recommended for prolonged bloom time.
Forced paperwhites often get very tall and floppy. A bulb researcher from Cornell University, Bill Miller, discovered a way to keep forced bulbs from stretching and getting out of hand. When using the water planting method, use plain water until the roots appear. Pour the clear water off and add water again with an alcohol/water mix. Use one part isopropyl alcohol to 10 parts water or 1 part gin or vodka to 7 parts water. Do not over-do the alcohol – too much will kill the bulbs. In about a month the shorter stems will bloom! When they begin to bloom switch the alcohol mix out for clear water again.
The good news is that this water/alcohol mix only affects the height, reducing it by 1/3 of the normal height. Fragrance and blooms are not affected.
As far as I know, the alcohol height control method has not been used on paperwhites planted in soil. If any of my readers have done this please let me know the results in the comments section below!
Decorate your paperwhite bowls with tiny decorative lights, submersible LED lights, green/red crystals, clear crystals, tiny pinecones or small Christmas tree ball ornaments. Use curly willow or red osier dogwood branches to support tall stems and flowers.
When forced, a paperwhite bulb will have used up all its stored energy growing and flowering. It will have very little hope of surviving later in the next growing season. You can dispose of them in the compost bin.
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October in Canada means Thanksgiving. This year, Thanksgiving is celebrated on Monday, October 9. It is a day set aside to be just that; thankful for all we have in this wonderful country and that includes the bounty of food from our vegetable gardens. It was a great season for growing not only vegetables but everything else in our yards and the crops on our farms.
I’d like to share with you a few of my gardening successes this year. Part of the joy of gardening is trying out new plant introductions and some old ones you’ve missed along the way. It is always a learning experience no matter how old you are!
First, I’d like to give a big shout-out to how well my tomatoes grew and produced this year. I have a south facing location where I plant 5 different varieties/cultivars of tomatoes in huge pots each spring. The heat was there this year and as long as I watered and fertilized you could almost see them grow daily! I was most impressed by the variety Sun Gold.
Sun Gold is not a new tomato on the market. If you have not tried this hybrid cherry tomato, order seed or buy starter plants early next year because they are incredible. Sun Gold is a indeterminate or vining plant that matures in 65 days and benefits from early staking and eventually a tall trellis or cage. I must admit I caged mine right away after planting but let it go from that point on. It grew to about 2m but they have been known to reach 2.5m. The exceptionally sweet fruit is produced on long, drooping trusses and when fully ripe are a beautiful deep orange color. Sun Gold produces all summer long and is great for eating straight off the vine or in salads. As an extra bonus Sun Gold is resistant to Verticullium Wilt, Fusarium Wilt (races 1 and 2), Nematodes and Tobacco Mosaic Virus. I love this tomato and you will too!
This spring we acquired a new water fountain for our patio. I needed a large, dramatic plant to provide a background for the fountain. It was a bit late in the season but Floral Acres still had water plants so I bought a Colocasia Blue Hawaii (Blue Hawaii Taro). I have grown Elephant Ears (Taro) before and they are an ‘easy to grow’ tropical plant to include in a sheltered part sun location. Taros are tuberous plants and love water, a rich tropical soil and fertilizer. Fertilize every three weeks with a half strength application of 20-20-20 water soluble fertilizer. My Blue Hawaii did not flower, but they do usually produce a yellowish–green spathe and spadix. I also used three Pothos as an under-planting in the tall container. I chose Pothos because it can tolerate fairly wet conditions and is a reliable shade plant. I think if I had planted these plants at the beginning of the season, the Blue Hawaii would have produced more leaves.
As you can see in the picture Blue Hawaii has large leaves with distinct purple veins. These leaves droop down on glossy dark burgundy stems. This taro will reach a height of 150 cm and a width of 60 cm. Because they are classified as an annual in Zone 3 they are frost tender and when temperatures reach 4 C it is time to dig them up, brush off the soil and store them in dry peat moss inside in a dry cardboard box in the basement. Do not seal the box. If you have the room, they can be treated as an indoor tropical plant for the winter. Locate in bright, indirect light and keep consistently moist.
The following spring you can start the tuber indoors 4-6 weeks before the average last frost date. Plant 5 inches deep and keep the soil moist at all times and place in bright, indirect light.
Gryphon Begonias were introduced in 2009 by the Pan Am Seed Company. I grew one on it’s own this year in a large planter and again was not disappointed! I really don’t care that it didn’t flower (they are pink by the way). As you can see this striking beauty is grown for its leaves. I am sure most of you are familiar with this outstanding annual begonia but a bit of growing information for the new gardener is always helpful.
The Gryphon Begonia is a cane-type begonia. It does not have a rhizome or tuber. The roots are fibrous. Other cane-type begonias are Dragon’s Wing and Angel Wing.
Grow the Gryphon in a shady to semi-shady location. Mine was very happy with late afternoon sun. Mature height is 36 -41cm x 41-46 cm. Plant this beauty in rich soil in a container on its own or a very large mixed container. Water only when the top 2.5 cm of soil is dry. They do not like to be overwatered.
Fertilize once a month during the growing season with a half-strength 20-20-20 water soluble fertilizer.
Propagate Gryphon Begonias by stem cuttings.
This begonia can be brought inside for the winter. Make sure you make this move before the first frost. Place in a bright, indirect location (near an east or west window), Do not overwater or fertilize.
My favorite annual of 2023 was Hibiscus acetosella ‘Mahogany Splendor’ (Hibiscus acetosella). Again, not a new annual to Zone 3 but was certainly new to me!
Technically this herbaceous plant is a perennial in Zones 8 and 9. I purchased it as a lone stem planted in a six inch pot. Little did I know that in one season this ‘stem’ would reach a mature height of over 1.5m with a spread of 1m.
I read the growing information on the plant tag and must admit I was skeptical at first about the mature height and spread. Surely they mean in a year or two? But it’s an annual! Luckily I planted it in rich soil in a 35 – 40 cm ceramic planter with drainage. At that time it looked rather lonely so I ringed the container with trailing verbena. I later learned the verbena did not stand much of a chance! (Side note: Bigger container next spring!)
It took a couple of weeks of good weather for it to root and take off growing like a weed! The picture was taken after I had pruned it once or twice and it still attained a height of almost 2m! Mahogany Splendor prefers a full sun to part shade location. I grew mine on the patio in part-shade but next year will be buying more than one and placing them in sun and semi-shade. I am sure the burgundy leaf color will intensify in the sun. It also has the wonderful serrated leaf texture of a Japanese maple.
Check daily for water needs when it is in a container. Water thoroughly daily in extremely hot weather.
I fertilized this plant only two times during the growing season. Once at the beginning of June and once in July with an all - purpose 20-20-20 water soluble fertilizer.
Propagation: Mahogany Splendor can be grown from seed or started in water using tip cuttings. I have recently started many cuttings in water and will grow them on in the winter in a bright window. I am not expecting too much actual growth in the winter but it’s an experiment worth doing!
Seeds can be started indoors in early spring about 10-12 weeks before the last frost. Germination usually occurs in 10-30 days. Scarify seeds and soak them for a day before planting to reduce germination time. Sow on the top of the seed starting soil and lightly cover with more soil. Optimum germination temperature is 21C to 23C. Water the seeds regularly until well established.
Flowers: Pink or maroon/ red flowers. They are a lighter red than the leaves. The short days of autumn should trigger flower bud formation. I have yet to see any flower buds but am not overly disappointed! More sunshine needed perhaps?
You can let this shrub to go dormant, heavily prune back stems and store in a cool room over the winter. You can also prune it back and bring it indoors before temps drop below 15C and place in a very bright room. If possible, isolate it for a month to make sure you are not bringing outdoor insect pests into the house.
Bonus: Mahogany Splendor can be used in cut flower arrangements. It has a vase life of 5-7 days.
Deer resistant; blooms attract late foraging bees.
This plant can be used as the central focal point in an island bed or beside a pond.
Give that tired perennial bed an annual boost and use it as a background plant in a mixed perennial border
Mahogany Splendor has no serious insect or disease problems.
]]>Lemon trees are native to North East India, Myanmar and China. Like many other fruit trees their fruit has been used in cooking around the world for thousands of years. They have been grown in Egypt and Iran since 700 AD and are generally grown outdoors in climates much warmer than ours! North America, California, Arizona and Florida (Zones 9-11) commercially grow the most lemons. During a good growing season, one tree usually produces about 272 kg. (600 pounds)!
The benefits of lemons have expanded over the decades. They are rich in Vitamin C and medicinally are still used to treat scurvy. Meyer Lemons are used in naturally acidic cleaning and freshening products. The uses for lemon in cooking are endless and they are also used in the production of skin care and cosmetics.
While we cannot grow lemons outdoors in Canada, they are relatively easy to grow indoors.
A well cared for, an indoor lemon tree or shrub can live for approximately 30 years or more if you have it placed in just the right sunny spot! All lemons begin to flower and bear fruit at approximately 3 – 5 years of age. Lemons will bear fruit once per year. The small white flowers have a beautiful fragrance but not overpowering. Lemons are self-fertile, so there is no need to have two trees for pollination to occur. When the flowers are open, it is helpful to use a very soft paintbrush and gently go from flower to flower to transfer the pollen from male to female or periodically give the tree branches a gentle shake as well. It will take 6-12 months from the beginning of fruit formation to fully ripen.
To successfully grow a lemon tree or shrub indoors some cultural conditions need to be met!
The most important growing requirement is light, so placing the lemon in a south window or sunroom is the best location. They need 8 hours or preferably more of sun per day to be happy. If you find this hard to achieve in your home, set up a grow light near your lemon tree. In Canada, supplemental lighting is a good idea from October to February.
Lemon trees grow best in indoor temperatures between 18C and 25C. Humidity should be 30 – 50%. If you decide to buy a humidifier keep set it to 50% to get enough moisture in the air.
Do not settle them where there is a hot or cold draft.
Lemons prefer to holiday outdoors in the summer. Slowly transition your lemon outdoors ahead of summer once temperatures reach a consistent 10 C or more at night. This is very important as lemons cannot tolerate any frost whatsoever. Over a period of two to three weeks, move the tree from a semi-shady to full sun location. In the fall, re-acclimate to the indoors over a period of 3-4 weeks before the first expected frost date.
Soil and Fertilization
Being a citrus fruit, lemons prefer to grow in a sandy, loam acidic soil. (pH of 5.5 to 6.5) The pot must have drainage and never let the pot sit in water in the catch basin.
Lemon trees benefit greatly from being fertilized with a plant food that is specifically for citrus plants. A slow release citrus fertilizer should be applied once in the early spring and supplemented monthly with a water soluble citrus fertilizer. In the late fall fertilize again with only a slow release citrus fertilizer. In three months time, apply the slow release food again. Do not use liquid fertilizer in the winter.
Watering
Water when the soil is dried down to about two inches in the pot. Water thoroughly so water drains out the bottom of the pot. Err on the side of too little water as opposed to too much, which usually causes root rot. Empty the catch basin after each watering. Citrus must be watered with warm water. If the summer weather is extremely hot, check every second day outdoors for water needs. It may not need watering every second day but do check.
Pruning
For the most part, try to avoid pruning. The fruit forms on the outside branches. If the lemon is way too bushy, you can do some interior thinning. You can also carefully trim off thorns as well.
Propagation
Propagation is by rooted cuttings or grafting. Growing a lemon from seed can be a surprising venture. If the parent plant is a hybrid, the offspring (seed) will not grow to be exactly like the parent plant. To grow a clone of the parent plant you must start it from a rooted cutting or a cutting that is grafted onto a hardier rootstock.
Photo Credit: 1millionwomen.com.au
Repotting
Repot your lemon every 2-3 years in spring and always move up just one pot size at each repotting. You can gently do a bit of a root prune as well if roots look too overgrown and compacted. Do not provide a large container too soon as this will encourage root rot.
Lemon Tree Pests and Problems
Make it a weekly routine to monitor your lemon for pests. Keep an eye out for mealybug, scale, aphids as well as spidermites. Especially after being outside for the summer. When moving it inside for the fall and winter, put pot and all in the shower and give it a warm thorough spraying. I would also do this routinely in the winter every month. Time it to coincide with watering.
Feeding aphids can spread a fungal disease called Tristeza. This disease may progress rapidly or slowly appear. Infected lemon trees may also develop root rot and pitting of the trunk. Symptoms are rapid leaf decline, yellowing and death. The tree becomes stunted, develops less flowers and fruit and may eventually die from this fungal disease.
Lemon Cultivars to Grow Indoors
Lemon trees used in commercial production are usually twenty feet tall or taller. There are smaller varieties that better fit in our homes. Small lemon trees and shrubs can produce many lemons per year if proper growing conditions are met. Most grow to be between 1.5 and 3 m at maturity.
Meyer – A Myer lemon is the easiest lemon to grow indoors. If in a pot, a Myer will eventually reach a mature height of 1.5 m. It is actually not a true lemon as it is a cross between a citron and a mandarin/ pomelo. They have a sweet, less acidic taste but their pH value of 2-3 is very acidic! Because of a very low pH, they are used in natural cleaning products. Lots of thorns. Toxic to cats and dogs.
Eureka - The fastest growing Lemon. Mature size is usually 1.2 – 1.8 m x 60 cm. to 1.2 m. Smooth, bright yellow lemons, shaped like a football. The lemons are produced on the ends of the tree branches. The fruit is seedless with yellow or pink flesh that has a sweet/sour tangy flavor. Can be purchased in bush or tree form. Very few thorns. A true lemon. Extremely toxic to pets.
Ponderosa Bush – This yellow lemon is large with a thick, bumpy and furrowed rind. Toxic to pets. A cross between a Pomelo and a Citron. Very acidic and juicy. Cold sensitive. Flowering and fruiting occur all year long. The maximum mature height you can expect indoors may be 3 m. Large thorns are present on the branches.
Bearss Bush – At maturity this lemon can grow to 3 meters in height. A juicy, tangy lemon that is very acidic and fast growing. Very few seeds and thorns. Great for juicing. Toxic to pets. A true lemon.
Variegated Pink – This lemon has variegated white, pink and green leaves. The fruit looks like a grapefruit and has a yellow-green skin. The flesh is pink but the juice is clear with a mild tutti-frutti flavor. At maturity it can reach a height of 3 m. Toxic to pets.
Lisbon Lemon – A vigorous grower. Produces an abundance of juicy, acidic, thin-skinned golden – yellow fruit. Very few seeds, if any at all. When grown indoors in a pot the mature height will be about 2 – 2.5m.
FYI - The oldest lemon tree in the United States is a Ponderosa Lemon and was planted in 1900.
Allergies to citrus are common, producing an itchy rash (contact dermatitis). Otherwise they are non-toxic to humans. The essential oils found mostly in the fruits are toxic to animals.
The depressed tiny dots on a lemon skin are actually oil glands that produce a lemony scent as they ripen.
New lemon leaves first come out with a reddish tint. This is not a problem. They will mature to a deep green above and a lighter green below.
]]>Kitchen Mini’s are the latest and greatest newcomers to add to your must-have vegetable list this spring! Many gardeners have limited room in their homes, relying on balcony or patio space to grow some flowering plants and container veggies. Ready to grow and enjoy? Kitchen Mini’s are the answer!
The beauty of these little pots of cherry tomatoes, sweet and hot peppers is that they can be grown indoors in a sunny window, or outside on the patio once all danger of frost is past. If you are also pressed for sunlight, they can be grown under full spectrum LED grow lights as well. The plants are bred to be compact, and when you purchase them most are in the flowering and fruiting stage already! Once mature, you can enjoy the tomatoes and peppers, compost the plants and purchase more. If you have the room, I recommend you buy new plants every two to three weeks for a continual supply. Each plant’s harvest usually lasts about a month to six weeks.
Kitchen Mini’s are meant to be kept in their original pot and should not be planted out in the garden. If the soil level in the pot goes down as you water, you can always top it up with some fresh soil.
Kitchen Mini’s have been bred to focus on producing great flavors, stress resistance and to have a long shelf life. All varieties of tomato and peppers need 6-8 hours of full sun per day.
Please check the plant tags for mature height and spread information. Some varieties may need staking. Water when soil feels dry to the touch. If you keep the plants on the dry side they will produce more flowers. Remember to empty the drainage trays after watering. Do not let the pots sit in water. Feed every two weeks with a water soluble veggie or tomato fertilizer. Water your plants first and then again with the fertilizer water. Never fertilize a dry plant.
Tomatoes and peppers are self-pollinating plants. Outdoors, pollination is not a problem. If your plants are inside, it is a good idea to help out with the pollinating process. Pollen is at its peak from noon to 3 p.m. With a tiny soft paint brush or q-tip, gently transfer pollen from flower to flower. Use a new brush or swab for each plant. Lightly shake the plant as well or vibrate the pot with an electric toothbrush. Air movement from open windows is helpful as well.
Kitchen Mini’s – Tomatoes – (Solanum lycopersicum)
Siam – A sweet, red cherry tomato. It is a determinate tomato – producing its fruit all at once. Height: 30 – 45 cm. Spread: 25 – 30 cm. May need staking.
Red Velvet – A sweet, red cherry tomato. A determinate variety. No pruning is necessary. Red Velvet likes to dry out somewhat – water when the first two inches of top soil feels dry to the touch. Height: 15 – 20 cm. Spread: 15 – 20 cm.
Micro Tom - A red cherry tomato. Height: 10 - 15 cm. Spread: 10 – 15 cm. A very tiny plant covered with red, sweet, bite sized tomatoes. They are usually 2.54 cm. in diameter. A determinate variety.
Cocoa – Fruit is burgundy in color when ripe. Sweet, very tasty. A determinate variety. Height: 20 cm. Spread: 20 cm. Keep soil on the dry side. This mini tomato can get heavy with fruit! Stake with a 30 cm. wooden skewer or chop stick.
Sweet Peppers (Capsicum annuum) – The Fresh Bites Series – Kitchen Mini’s
This series of mini peppers includes Fresh Bites Orange, Red and Yellow. They are a zero on the Scoville (SHU) heat scale. Height: 30 - 38 cm. Spread: 15 – 20 cm. Can be used in a myriad of recipes and eaten fresh as well.
Fresh Bites Peppers should be kept inside in a sunny window until our nights reach 12 -23 C. They need a well-drained soil. Heat and drought tolerant. Water only when there is a slight wilt to the leaves and the top 5 cm. of the soil is dry. Peppers like their fertilizer! Water every two weeks with a water soluble veggie fertilizer. When fertilizing, water your peppers with clear water first. Let it drain through then follow up with the water soluble veggie fertilizer.
Hot Peppers ( Capsicum annuum) – Kitchen Mini’s
The hot peppers make up the largest group in the Kitchen Mini’s selection.
As we all know, hot peppers add a spicy kick to any recipe. They can be eaten fresh or dried. Please follow care instructions as per Sweet Peppers.
These hot peppers start out green and depending on variety, mature into colors of yellow, orange, and red. Take note that each pepper variety may have all ripening colors on the plant at the same time.
Hot Burrito – Heat Scale: 1 out of 5. Mildly spicy. Height: 18-23 cm. Fruit begins as lime green then transitions to bright red when ripe.
Adobo – Heat Scale: 2 out of 5. Cone-shaped, hot banana type red pepper when ripe. Thick walls and slightly sweet when ripe with a mild to medium heat. Height: 30-36 cm. Spread: 20-25 cm.
Hot Faqita - Heat Scale: 3 out of 5. A fleshy, spicy pepper. Height: 25-30 cm. Spread: 20-25 cm. Long tapered lime green fruit matures to red.
Cosmo – Heat Scale: 2 out of 5. Height: 25-30 cm. Spread: 20-25 cm. Purple to red when mature. Snack-sized fruit. Purple to red when fully ripe.
Hot Joker - Heat Scale: 2 out of 5 Height: 30-36 cm. Spread: 20-25 cm. Fruit begins with a lime green color and brightens to a bright red when ripe. Deep red when dried.
Tamale – Heat Scale: 2 out of 5 Height: 15-20 cm. Spread: 20 cm. A jalapeno type with a blunt conical shape. Red when ripe. Thick walled pepper, crisp and juicy.
Pinata - Heat Scale: 3 out of 5 Height: 20-25 cm. Spread: 20-25 cm. Ripening color begins with a lime green to red at maturity. Thin walls.
Taquito – This is a very small pepper plant. Heat Scale: 3 out of 5. Cone-shaped peppers that ripen from green to bright red.
Lemon Zest – Spiciest of the Kitchen Mini’s Hot Peppers. Heat Scale: 5 out of 5. A Habanero variety. Height: 30-36 cm. Spread: 30-36 cm. Its fruit is fully ripe when lemon yellow.
FYI: The Kitchen Mini’s group of vegetables have been bred specifically for container growing. All are non GMO and growth regulators have not been used.
Kitchen Mini’s are brought to you in North America by the Pan American Seed Company.
In spring of 2024 look for Quick Snack Edible Potted Cucumber in the Kitchen Mini family!
Thrips love pepper plants. Place some sticky cards among your pepper pots and change these cards regularly.
Tomato and Pepper leaves and stems are toxic to humans and pets. Unripe tomatoes are toxic to cats and dogs.
]]>Gardening by the Phases of the Moon
When you are planning your garden this spring, consider planting, transplanting, and harvesting by the lunar cycle or what is known as the monthly phases of the moon. This is not a new topic but if you are a beginner in the world of gardening, it may be new to you! The practice of gardening and growing agricultural crops according to the waxing and waning of the moon has been followed for centuries all around the world. Ancient farming civilizations such as the Aztecs and Mayans were governed in their everyday life by the night sky and for the most part grew healthy and productive crops.
Every 29 ½ days the moon passes through four phases (technically 8) in the night sky. The new moon, the first quarter, the full moon and the third quarter… and repeat. The time between the new moon and the full moon is known as the waxing stage and the time between the full moon and the new moon is known as the waning stage.
Because of its close proximity to earth, the moon’s gravitational pull affects all living things. Most notable is its powerful effect on the ocean tides; causing them to rise and fall. It has the same effect on the soil’s moisture, causing water to rise toward the surface of the soil during the waxing phase and receding during the waning phase. It is also well known around the world that the gravitational pull of the moon affects plant growth at all stages from seeding and transplanting to pruning and harvest.
But what is waxing and waning? During the waxing phase, the gravitational pull of the moon slowly becomes stronger, resulting in the strongest pull when the moon is full. Ground water is pulled up to the soil’s surface. Seeds planted during this time will absorb the water, germinate and establish a strong root system. Now don’t think that you have to seed right on the day of the full moon – If possible, allow about three days planting time before the full moon. During the waxing it is best to plant flower, fruit and vegetable seed that will bear fruit above ground. For example: tomatoes, beans, corn, peas, spinach, celery, cabbage, and lettuce. During the full moon, the ‘moonlight’ is also at full strength. The moon does not generate light on its own. What we see as a beautiful round full moon is actually a reflection of the sun shining on the moon’s surface. As moonlight increases during a waxing moon phase, plants are encouraged to grow more leaves and stems.
During the waning of the moon, transplanting can be done and you can plant flowering bulbs, perennial flowers, and vegetables that bear crops below ground. For example: Onions, carrots, potatoes, parsnips, and beets. These plants are encouraged to grow roots, tubers and bulbs. The New Moon is not visible as the earth is entirely blocking the sun from reflecting onto the moon’s surface. The gravitational pull of the moon has slowly been getting weaker and the ground water recedes down through the levels of the soil profile.
The new moon is also known as the resting phase. During the resting phase you can fertilize, harvest, prune, mulch, compost, weed or mow the lawn!
Harvesting – The ideal time to harvest vegetables and fruits is when the lunar cycle is in the waxing phase. Garden crops harvested during this time will last longer in storage. The ideal time to harvest medicinal plants and herbs is in the waning stage. Herbs will taste better and medicinal plants will have more healing power.
As you can see, this just scratches the surface of all the information available on the basics of gardening by the moon’s phases. There is a wealth more information on the internet regarding this topic and I encourage you to read up and make use of this info and have fun trying it out! Keep a ‘Moon Garden Plan’ and involve the whole family. It is a great project for the kids to learn so many different aspects of gardening, astronomy, history, journaling and record keeping.
FYI – The Farmer’s Almanac Planting Calendar is an excellent source for local planting dates based on the moon’s phases and your postal codes average last frost dates. You must also take your particular climate or zone into account to get the full picture when planning. Do keep in mind that your area’s projected last and first frost dates are estimates only and it’s a good idea to keep a good eye on your local weather for day and especially, nighttime temperatures.
Lunar Cycles - May and June 2023
May - June
Full Moon - May 5, June 4
Last Quarter - May 12, June 10
New Moon - May 19, June 18
First Quarter - May 27, June 26
From the Full Moon to the New Moon (May 5 – 19) – the waning phases
(June 4-18) - the waning phases
From the New Moon to the Full Moon ( May 19 –June 4) – the waxing phases
]]>There are over 45 species of Phalaenopsis orchids (a.k.a moth orchids) and they are the most popular orchid in the world. Popular due to their ease of care and ability to stay in bloom for months at a time. Their flower colors are endless and these orchids also come in miniature form. 'Phals' are an epiphytic flowering plant native to China, India, Taiwan, the Philippines, Southeast Asia and Australia. Phals can be found in trees and secure themselves to branches with aerial roots without harming the tree. The aerial roots are those long green tendrils jutting out at odd angles from the base of the plant. Phals also grow amongst rocks close to rivers and moss covered tree roots.
Moth orchids absorb nutrients from decaying plant, insect, and animal matter and take moisture from the humid air. If you are new to Phalaenopsis orchids I would encourage you to study their natural growing environment to give you clues as to how to provide an optimal growing environment in your home.
People often perceive all orchids as specialty plants that need an immense amount of time and care. Yes, there are some that do need the extra care but the Phalaenopsis is not one of them. If you are just starting out or thinking about growing orchids, this is the one to buy. A healthy moth orchid will grow for years and bloom at least once a year.
Customers that are just starting out growing Phalaenopsis orchids often do not know what to do with them once the flowers drop off or have had a phal for months without seeing another flower spike come out from the plant.
In order to help your orchid bloom again, it needs the following:
First and foremost; a ton of patience on your part. Phals are slow growing. Accept it, live with it and don’t sweat the small stuff. :) Do not repot an orchid that is budding and blooming.
Humidity – In their native habitat Phalaenopsis orchids are used to 50 – 100% humidity. If you can supply 50-60% you are doing well. A humidifier is the best or a pebble filled water tray. Do not let the orchid pot sit in water. Phals do not like to be constantly wet. In fact you can let them almost totally dry out before watering again. A bright bathroom location is the best really. I have mine on a shelf over the kitchen sink as there is more humidity there than anywhere else in the house.
Phalaenopsis orchids often flower for one to three months. Do not fertilize during the bloom period.
Once all the flowers have dropped off the flower spike and it begins to turn brown, cut the spike back to 3-4 nodes with sterilized pruners/scissors. Leave the spike at no more than 8-10 cm. tall.
The orchid then needs to rest. It is like a tulip bulb in that it needs to regain the energy/nutrients it used up during the bloom period. During the resting phase these orchids will flatten out their leaves, experience some drooping and generally look unwell. This is normal. Do not throw it out! Fertilize every two weeks during this period with a very weak dilution of an all-purpose water soluble fertilizer. By dilute, I mean fertilize at ¼ the recommended strength on the label.
While the orchid is resting, make sure it is in a warm room (18-24 C) in a location that is bright but not in direct sun and away from hot/cold drafts. A south window is only okay if the orchid is separated from the window by a sheer curtain. My mini Phalaenopsis orchid is in a south kitchen window without curtains but the house has an overhang which blocks the direct sun. If the light in your house is too low, you may also have to rely on full spectrum grow lights to provide the light this plant needs to grow and be healthy.
Phalaenopsis orchids usually need repotting every two years. Repot when the flowers have dropped off and new aerial roots are starting to form. If you have to repot, again be patient as the orchid will take some time to adjust to the new medium.
After the rest period, watch for the new growth phase to begin. The orchid will develop new roots and a new leaf or two. Water during this time with warm water and let the media almost totally dry out before watering again. I like to carefully dunk the pot and aerial roots into a bucket of warm water to make sure all lower parts are saturated. Do not let the water sit where each leaf attaches to the main stem. If this does happen use a cue tip or folded paper towel to soak up the water. Keep very lightly fertilizing every second watering during this time. Water with clear water between fertilizer applications. This helps to wash away any excess salts in the medium. Always empty the drain tray after watering.
When your Phalaenopsis has grown a brand new leaf or two it is time to start the bloom cycle. The new leaf should be larger than the last one.
Move the orchid to a cool area of the home (13 to 16 C.) This cooling period is absolutely critical to successfully bloom your orchid in the future. Keep the orchid in a brightly lit room or near to a window where it will get enough light and experience the cooler nighttime temperatures. After two to four weeks the orchid should be sending out a flower spike from between two older leaves located close to the base of the plants new leaves. At this point, move the orchid back to its original warm room. When the spike reaches a height of 5-7 inches, loosely tie it to a stake. Stop fertilizing. Do not move it from this location as it develops buds.
I would highly recommend that you keep a journal and record this blooming ‘adventure’. Writing all the steps down as they happen will be important in the future and refresh your memory!
Phalaenopsis may not bloom due to lack of light, over/under watering, lack of fertilization, lack of good air flow in the room, aphids, spider mite, mealybugs, root rot, and botrytis (this shows up as small brown spots on the flowers). Fungal diseases that cause yellowing, orange and red spots on the leaves can also be a reason your moth orchid does not bloom. Copper fungicide spray can help this problem if you catch it early. Healthy leaves should be a bright green - if they become dark green, the plant needs more light.
Yellow or red tinted leaves – too much light. Relocate the plant!
Brown patches, very limp, wilted, leathery or wrinkled leaves – too much or too little water.
Do not use soft water. And always, always use warm water to avoid shocking the roots. Should I use ice cubes, you ask? My answer is no. Phalaenopsis orchids have survived for centuries in tropical jungles in the understory of surrounding trees. Not an ice cube in sight.
Keep an eye on the root system. The aerial roots secure the plant to a tree, support the orchid and take in any nutrients it needs from the surrounding air and decaying insect and plant matter. A healthy phal orchid root is light green which shows it is taking in oxygen and photosynthesizing. In order to photosynthesize the orchid roots need light and oxygen which is why they are sold in clear or perforated ceramic pots. If a lot of roots begin to blacken, immediately trim off the blackened areas with sterilized pruners/scissors and repot.
FYI – I had my mini phalaenopsis produce a few new buds at the end of the spike after all the main flowers had dropped off. The buds will flower and you can then cut the spike back once it starts to turn brown.
If the potting mix totally becomes degraded, repot immediately to save the plant. It will begin to grow again in a few weeks.
Large Phalaenopsis plants may send out two new spikes per bloom season.
]]>My favorite part of the Christmas season is the festive meal with family and friends on Christmas day. Especially the turkey! I am betting that all the gardeners out there have some dried homegrown poultry seasoning herbs in their pantry. Those herbs are Sage, Rosemary, Thyme and Marjoram.
Poultry seasoning was created by William Bell of Boston in 1867. He used it to season pork and sausage but soon it was being sprinkled on turkey, chicken and duck. At the end of this blog I will give you a super easy delicious savory recipe for homemade poultry seasoning. It originated on the website 'Taste of Home' by Jenna Urben. If you have dried herbs hanging in your pantry, grind down the ingredients, mix, and season that turkey!
The dominant flavor in poultry seasoning is the herb Sage. Common Sage ( Salvia officinalis) is rich in vitamins K, B6, calcium and iron.
Sage was used in Egypt to enhance fertility and the Greeks/Romans used it as a meat preservative, to aide digestion, enhance the memory, and to make a poultice to stop bleeding. They even used sage to clean their teeth!
For hundreds of years Native American people have used the sacred White Sage (Salvia apiana) for ceremonies and rituals (smudging) to get rid of negative energy and to refresh, purify and protect.
Other sage varieties include Golden, Purple, Tricolor, Pineapple, Greek, and Spanish. I often use the variegated varieties in outdoor mixed planters. You can also keep sage as a houseplant! Try common sage as a tea to relieve sore throat pain.
Common Sage is easily grown from seed indoors under lights or outside in spring and summer. Plant at a depth of ¼ inch. It usually takes 7-14 days to germinate and 75 days to maturity. Mature leaves are grey-green and fuzzy. You can use the leaves of young plants but the most flavorful leaves are the largest mature ones. At maturity your sage plants will each need a large pot as this plant will reach 30-60 cm in height and width. Other sage varieties vary in mature height and width.
Seed started indoors should be placed in a sunny location after germination for 6-8 weeks before planting out. If you will be using the sage for seasoning, do not fertilize. Fertilization will cause the leaves to lose flavor.
Another golden rule when growing sage is to not overwater. This plant is drought tolerant once established. Overwatering will cause root rot so good drainage is very important.
Sage flowers are produced in early summer, and have a camphor/mint-like aroma. Depending on the variety, the scent can vary and the flower color can be blue, purple, pink or white. The flowers are produced in spikes and are especially loved by bees and butterflies. The flowers are also edible!
Propagation can be done by gathering stem tip cuttings and placing them in moist vermiculite. They take about six weeks to root.
Dry sage by hanging loosely bundled bunches of cut stems upside down to air dry. Drying time is usually about 10 days but may take longer. When the sage leaves are completely dry, strip the leaves from the branches, crumble them into an airtight container and store in your pantry until you are ready to grind them down with a mortar and pestle. This is the old school way of drying and grinding herbs but many people now dry them by microwave or food dehydrators.
FYI – Sage plants grown outdoors need about 6-8 hours of sun per day. The more sun you give the plants, the more flavorful the leaves will be!
Sage is considered hardy in Zone 4 and up. If you have a sheltered sunny spot in your garden, as an experiment, leave one plant in the soil, remove any branches once frosted and mulch. During the winter pile snow on this mulch for extra insulation. Come spring, you may be pleasantly surprised!
Poultry Seasoning Recipe
Thoroughly mix all ingredients together and store in a cool, dark place in an airtight container. Remember that dried herbs are 2-3 times stronger than fresh herbs.
With thanks to Jenna Urban and her website 'Taste of Home'.
A dried leaf bundle of poultry seasoning ingredients tied with a red ribbon and a decorative card with the recipe makes a great hostess gift.
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With Christmas on the way it is always great to get ahead of the game and create outdoor decorations while the weather is decent. It gets the holiday creative juices flowing! Many gardeners love to decorate with outdoor planters and hanging baskets containing natural plant materials from their own property. If you own an acreage with various trees, shrubs, and perennials, all the better.
If you have not cleaned out your cocoa or large wire moss baskets, this is the perfect time to create a natural Christmas themed basket to hang at the front entrance or on the back deck where you can enjoy it too! These baskets and containers will still be full of roots from the summer and that ‘root base’ will serve to anchor your branches, twigs, berries and decorations.
Plastic 12 inch hanging baskets will also work for more upright arrangements that you can hang or pop in a planter to brighten up the Christmas season.
As you read through the directions below remember this is just a guideline – feel free to experiment with your own creative ideas and enjoy the process.
First gather all the tools you will need:
-Sharp pruners
-Waterproof ribbon for bows (you can also use wired ribbon for bows)
-Scissors
-Needle-nose pliers
-Water in a watering can
-Medium gauge knitting needle that you will use to poke holes in the rootball
-Small wire cutters
-Glue gun and glue sticks
-Small hand-held drill with a narrow, sharp bit
-Narrow bamboo support stakes
I usually use wired ribbon in a color or pattern that matches the decorative Christmas tree balls or ornaments such as birds. A large lazy susan turntable comes in handy which allows you to easily turn your basket as you work. Locate a spot where you can hang the basket to fill in and finish the bottom.
Weather allowing, it is always a good idea to create the basket where you are planning to hang it – you can certainly use that hook to hold it while you finish the bottom. Always be mindful of your back and create your arrangement on a waist high table. It does not need to be fancy! Do not forget your coffee or tea!
If you have thrown out your pre-planted moss baskets, you can always use the wire frame, line it with green sphagnum moss and fill with pre-soaked floral oasis (the kind used for fresh flower arrangements). Soak the foam in water for one half to a full hour to make sure it is totally saturated. Once placed in the basket, top the oasis off with a shallow cover of moss and then tie the moss/foam down with green string criss-crossed over the basket. You can do all this with the wire hanger in place.
Next, collect all the natural plant ingredients before you start. Focus on using different colors and most important, different textures of plant material. Prune larger branches from deciduous and evergreen trees and shrubs – they can always be cut down to size if need be. Other ingredients you can use are ornamental grass seed heads, cattails, rose hips on branches, Poppy seed cones, mountain ash berries and viburnum berries. For seed heads that may shed, spray them with hairspray. Curly or straight willow branches are great for the central point of the basket as well as red or yellow twig dogwood. If you are lucky enough to have alder on your property, their ‘cones’ are very distinct and tiny. Do not rule out using a few artificial Christmas sprays.
Include a few large pine cones. Drill a hole in the base but not entirely through the cone. Fill the hole with hot glue and insert a narrow branch or long wooden skewer. Decorative ornaments such as colored balls that have a hole in the bottom can be glued onto a narrow skewer or bamboo stake. Hot glue the end of the stick and insert it into the ornament opening until it touches the top of the ornament. Set aside to dry.
Once you have gathered all the supplies, begin by pruning off all the old summer growth right back to the root ball. The next step is to soak the root ball in water a day ahead of your decorating date. This allows the root ball to drain so the next day you are not stuck with a wet mess. This also softens up the root ball so you can poke holes in it with your pointed knitting needle. These holes will make things easier when inserting branches, ornaments and bows.
I always like to determine my design shape parameters at the beginning. (See Diagram 1.) This is used as a reference so you do not lose sight of the overall shape as you insert your plant stems throughout the hanger. I like to create a central grouping of various branches.
Red/yellow twig dogwood and curly willow are great central materials. As per the diagram create the skeleton guide with a few branches around the edges and then a few branches that help form the dome shape that you can loosely follow as you work around the basket. Do not worry about being “perfect” as this can put a real damper on the process – just do it! The looser the overall shape is as you insert the branches the better. Make sure to vary the textures of plant material around the basket and use some repetition as you work.
At this point you can spray the arrangement with an anti-desiccant such as Wilt Pruf. I like to put the berry branches, pine cones, ornaments and bow (s) in last. These can be grouped in threes for more of an impact. The bow or bows can be placed near the cones, berries and ornaments as a focal point. Finally hang up your arrangement and fill in the underside of the basket.
As the final decorative touch, insert the bow(s). The bow(s) should be wired or glued to a long wooden skewer and inserted into the arrangement. Please refer to YouTube for excellent videos on how to make a bow. The bow can be created before or after finishing the project. The wet root ball will eventually freeze and lock in your arrangement.
I highly recommend including tiny battery operated LED mini lights in your arrangements. These seem to work better in cold temperatures than nickel metal hydride batteries that are used in solar lights.
Avoid putting your Christmas hangers in direct sun. Intense winter sun will brown and dry out the evergreens in your arrangement. The anti-desiccant spray will help but is not a cure.
Gather inspiration from YouTube or Pinterest. Creating a beautiful outdoor Christmas hanging basket makes a great group project to enjoy with friends or your children.
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Saving seeds for next year’s garden is fun and rewarding. Seeds can be saved from annuals, perennials and vegetables. It is so worthwhile to gather and save seeds with your kids and grandchildren. It teaches them many things about nature; the life cycle of plants, where a great deal of our food comes from, how many parts of nature work together to create plants, the importance of preserving seeds for the future and patience!
As our climate changes, we face the real possibility of entire crops of food being eliminated. In some countries this is already happening. Disasters such as fires, floods, war and extreme weather are occurring at a rapid pace, making it more important than ever that we save seeds for future generations. For the most part, this is accomplished by the 1,750 Seed Banks found around the world. Seed Banks were created many years ago to preserve the diversity of the world’s plant species. Perhaps you have heard of the largest seed bank called the Global Seed Vault on the island of Svalbard, Norway; built in 2008. Norway owns this seed vault and other participating countries store seed at this location. They also store tubers, rhizomes, bulbs and plants that do not produce seed. It is worth a Google search just to learn more about this amazing endeavor.
If a plant produces a seed, you can save it. Many seeds require special treatment before and during storage but the plants we have in our gardens in Zone 3 are easily started from seed. For seed saving beginners, there are a few plant and seed classifications you need to know. After that the choice is up to you!
Open-Pollination
Open-pollination is when pollination comes about by bees, butterflies, insects or wind. Nature controls the pollen dispersal from plant to plant. The resulting seeds/plants will become more genetically diverse improving plant hardiness and health. As long as pollen is not shared between different varieties within the same species, then the seed produced will remain true-to-type year after year.
Some open-pollinated plants are self-pollinating. The plant has both male and female parts in each flower and pollination can occur even before the flower opens. Tomatoes, peas, and beans are all self-pollinating plants.
Heirloom Plants and Seeds
Heirloom seed comes from plants that were grown before 1951. Seeds from heirloom plants produce the same plant as their parent plant.
Heirloom seeds have been planted and passed down through the years from generation to generation in families and within communities. There is usually a written record. Years ago there were no such things as seed catalogues and seed companies. Seed saving was a very common and necessary practice if you wanted a vegetable and flower garden the following spring. Every fall the healthiest, strongest, and tastiest plants were chosen to go to seed and saved for the next spring. Heirloom plants are all open-pollinated.
Hybrid Seeds
After 1951, hybrid seeds became available in stores. A hybrid plant is the result of humans deliberately cross-pollinating two different plant species or varieties and growing the seed this cross produces. The resulting plants are considered ‘hybrids’ and are also called F1. You will find this F1 designation on some seed packets which indicates the seed inside is hybrid or first generation offspring. Seed gathered and planted from F1 hybrid plants will not be the same as the parent plants. Hybridization is done to secure the best qualities of the parents. This can be improved taste, better disease resistance, bigger blooms or higher yields. Hybrids are NOT GMOs.
GMOs are Genetically Modified Organisms (seed) created in a lab environment – not a garden. Their genetic make-up is altered. More about GMOs in future blogs!
How to Save Your Own Seed
First, decide which plants you will be using for seed saving. Mark them with a small colorful ribbon. Choose healthy plants that during the growing season did not have disease or insect problems, had great flavor, were very productive, or had prolific blooming ability. Leave one or two of these plants to go to seed. Do some seed saving research about your chosen plants.
Check your plants daily for ripe seeds. Seeds mature differently – beans and peas mature within their pods, lettuce seeds ripen in flower capsules, tomato and cucumber seeds mature within fleshy fruit.
Harvesting time varies for each plant. For example, cucumbers should be left on the plant for a few weeks after the rest of the cucumbers have been harvested.
Generally let veggies dry on the plant as long as possible. If the fall is rainy, you can pull up the entire plant and hang it in your basement or garage. Beans and peas should be ready when the pods are brown, dry and the seeds are rattling in the pods.
For annual and perennial flowers, allow seed heads to dry on the plant. Seedpods that turn green to brown is usually mature. Perennial poppy seeds ripen in a pod and are ready when you hear a distinctive rattle when shaking the pod.
Harvest seeds on a sunny day. Seeds that scatter easily (dill) will need the seed heads shaken over an open paper bag. Remember to label the bag with the name of the plant and date collected.
Before storage make sure they are completely dry. Spread the seed out on a flat surface like a screen or tray and store in a dark, airy place.
Some flower heads may need to be cut open and others will need the seed covering cleaned off.
Once completely dry, put seeds in paper envelopes and label each one with name and date collected. Enclose the envelopes in an airtight container. You can also use individual tiny glass jars for each seed type. A great way to ensure dryness in storage is to include a small bag of silica gel desiccant in each container.
Store in a cool, dark, dry place for the winter. A temperature between 0 and 5 degrees celsius is preferable. If you are lucky enough to have a second fridge, that would be an ideal storage spot.
Most saved seeds can be started early the next spring to get a jump on the season. Check with online seed starting charts to determine the best starting dates for Zone 3.
Saving Tomato Seed
When saving tomato seed the first step is to save seed from your healthiest tomato plants and their tomatoes. You should only save seeds from open-pollinated plants including the heirloom varieties. Do not use the seed from hybrid tomatoes.
Tomato seed must be fermented before drying. Yes, fermented.
Scoop out seeds and pulp from a fully ripe tomato. Put this mash in a glass container and add enough water to cover the mash. Cover with plastic wrap. Let stand for three days at room temperature. As you may have guessed already, this is going to smell awful as the days go by. Set the bowl in a spot well out of the way! The fourth day, uncover the bowl and you will observe a moldy mess on the top of the water. This is normal.
The viable (alive) seeds will have sunk to the bottom of the bowl. Carefully pour off the moldy water over a fine mesh screen letting the viable seeds remain on the bottom. Rinse seeds and drain. You may have to rinse and drain a few times to make sure the remaining seed is clean. Spread the clean seeds out on a paper plate or glass cake dish to dry for 7-10 days. Make sure they are completely dry before putting each variety in a labelled paper envelope and then in a sealed container. Tomato seeds will remain viable for four years.
Saving seeds is important – a seed is a tiny miracle of nature. Within that tiny speck there is the genetic code to create a whole new plant!
So, as you can see, saving seeds is relatively easy! The above is only an introduction to the topic; much more information is available in books and online. The best education is joining gardening groups or the local horticultural society where you will find members that are more than happy to share their knowledge.
A bonus information:
Heirloom Tomato Varieties
Brandywine, Beefsteak, Roma, Cherokee Purple, Cherokee Chocolate, Black Krim, Green Zebra, Mortgage Lifter, Bonny Best, Black Cherry, Black Russian, Yellow Pear, Oxheart Pink, Tumbling Tom Red, Chocolate Stripes and Heirloom Rainbow Blend
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The single most important thing you can add to your garden is your own homemade nutrient rich compost. Great soil equals a great garden! Compost revitalizes nutrient poor soil and helps that soil retain moisture. Composting also keeps about one third of household waste from landfills. The beneficial organisms that break down household waste also continue to work in your garden, doing their magic silently improving your soil.
Composting is an environmentally beneficial garden practice that you can pass on to your children. My guess is that they probably can tell us a thing or two about this important and beneficial process.
The goal of composting is to create a dark brown light and fluffy humus or nutrient rich earth that you can add to all areas of your property. Humus is completely broken- down organic matter. This is primarily achieved by microorganisms such as bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. A healthy compost pile is made up of a ratio of 1/3 green and 2/3 brown material. The extra brown material bulks up the pile, allowing oxygen and water to penetrate which is very important. Without these the microorganisms cannot do their work. Proper decomposition relies on carbon rich brown materials such as dried leaves, wood ash, shredded paper, and cardboard. It also relies on nitrogen-based matter – chopped fruits and vegetables, green leaves, lawn clippings, decomposed chicken, horse, and cattle manure.
(Photo Taken By Green Action Center https://greenactioncentre.ca/reduce-your-waste/composting-basics-and-getting-started/ )
Locate your compost pile in a sunny or partly sunny area that gives you enough room to work around it. Ideally somewhere near your vegetable garden! Locate your compost bin on bare soil. This allows insects and beneficial organisms to relocate into the compost pile. They then can be transferred to your veggie garden and flower beds in the finished compost.
Dependent on your location decide how large to make your compost pile. The size and type of bin is of course up to you. If you are building a bin, the standard dimension is 1x1x1 m. for a single bin. The ideal compost area is the three- bin system allowing an “assembly line”, turning materials from one to the other. (See picture above).
Chicken wire allows moisture and oxygen into the compost bin which is vital for proper decomposition. Old pallets can be used as they have spaces between wood slats. Be sure to leave one of the four sides accessible on each bin for ease of turning and shovelling your compost. Top off the bin(s) with old carpet or a tarp to reduce moisture loss. If you feel extra ambitious make a top for your bin on hinges that help fold the lid back.
If your budget allows, a pre-made tumbler compost system works very well. It makes turning the ingredients easier and speeds up the decomposition process. The main drawback to the tumbler is that you cannot make a lot of compost at one time. Locate a bin beside the tumbler as a holding bin for your waste and keep turning it once a week in preparation to add to the tumbler.
In the kitchen there are kitchen waste containers that you can purchase with carbon filters. You can also use large ice cream buckets. Chop kitchen waste into small pieces before composting – this will speed up the decomposition process and reduce trips to the bin.
Earthworms will gravitate to your compost bin but when a compost bin starts to steam that means your microbes are doing their work, but the earthworms will cook. Fortunately, most will have vacated the pile long before it gets too hot and may return when the pile cools down.
Once your bin is ready, begin the process by first layering brown carbon producing materials. Brown materials include shredded newspaper, cardboard, used coffee filters and a thin layer of sawdust. Do not make the layers too deep.
Alternate brown layers with green. Green materials include chopped veggie scraps, fruit peels, cores, tea and coffee grounds, hair, and lint from the dryer.
Aim to use as much shredded and chopped material as possible. It is especially important to shred any paper used.
Layer three parts brown to one part green. Add some water but not too much. The compost should be always moist but never soggy. Thoroughly mix the layers each time you add to the pile. This introduces more oxygen into the ingredients. Pay more attention to adding water if the spring and summer is dry.
Mix in thin layers of garden soil every once in awhile to introduce more microorganisms into the process.
Steam coming from the pile is a great sign that the microbes are doing their work in breaking down the organic matter.
If the compost begins to smell this is an indication there is too much green waste. Add more carbon- based products and mix thoroughly. Too much carbon and the pile decomposition will slow down dramatically. The answer is to add more nitrogen rich waste or blood meal which is a great source of nitrogen (NPK of 12-0-0). Just add a teaspoon or two as bloodmeal is quite strong.
If you have chickens, you can compost chicken feathers as they are rich in nitrogen. Soak them in water for a few hours before adding them to the compost pile.
Coffee grounds can be added to compost piles but sparingly. Too much and they can hinder the work of the microbes.
Ready to use compost accelerators that you can purchase at a garden center are certainly helpful in adding beneficial organisms to your compost pile. Especially if the decomposition process has slowed right down. Do research natural compost accelerators that you have around the house as they are just as effective in boosting the microbe activity.
- Weeds & Diseased Plant Material
- Eggs (shells are okay)
- Meat & Dairy Products
- Treated Wood or Sawdust
- Breads & Baked Goods
- Grease & Oils
- Human & Pet Waste
- Any green material that has been sprayed with an herbicide.
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Stevia rebaudiana is an annual herb whose leaves can be used fresh or dried for sweetening tea, coffee, juices and on cereals as a sugar substitute. It is 250-300 times the sweetness of sugar. 1 tablespoon of stevia equals 1 cup (250 ml.) of sugar! A little goes a long, long way. The sweetness of the leaves can vary though depending on type of soil, growing zone climate and time of harvest.
Stevia is native to Brazil and Paraguay, China and Japan. Japan, in fact, has banned the use of all artificial sweeteners except stevia and has done so since the 1970s. It consumes more stevia than any other country in the world.
The active compounds in stevia are called steviol glycosides. These gylcosides cannot be metabolized by our bodies so contain zero calories. Stevia strengthens the immune system, promotes heart health, regulates blood pressure and helps to lower cholesterol.
I have never baked with stevia but have heard it can be tricky. It is not a true substitute for sugar in some recipes such as bread. Before baking with stevia, check it out on a reputable baking site on the net.
Stevia likes a full sun location inside or outside. (6-8 hours per day). It will not tolerate temps below 7 degrees C. and prefers a well draining, loamy soil mix with a pH of 6.2 to 7.2. If you can add compost to the soil mix all the better.
Stevia can be grown in a flower bed or in a container. Containers are handy as they can be moved inside for the winter. It is most important to transplant your stevia plants outside after all danger of frost is past. It is best to give it lots of room; 45 cm. between each plant in the ground. Mulch around the roots with a layer of compost to keep the feeder roots from drying out. At maturity, a stevia plant will be 76 cm. tall by 60 cm. wide.
Keep your stevia plants moist but not soggy. Water in the morning at ground level, not on the leaves.
Prune your stevia plant when it is approximately 20-25 cm. tall. Pruning encourages more branching resulting in the plant producing more leaves. Trim it back again in early summer.
Fertilize with a half strength application of water soluble 20-20-20 regularly; about once every two weeks.
Stevia is termed an annual herb but can be overwintered indoors and put outside again in spring. Prune the plants back to 6 inches tall in late fall and move inside to a sunny spot. New growth may not appear until spring when the days begin to get longer.
You can harvest stevia at any time – the new leaves are the sweetest. Harvesting in the fall is best as the leaves become even sweeter in cool temperatures. Early in the morning is best as the highest leaf sugar content occurs in the a.m. Do not let stevia go to the flowering stage. Even if only three to four flowers open, the entire taste of the leaves can change and lose some or all their sweetness.
You can also dry the stems (without the flowers) in a food dehydrator or hang them upside down to thoroughly dry. Once dry, grind them by hand or use a food processor to grind them into powder form. Store in an airtight container.
Stevia is not prone to being bothered by many pests or diseases. Aphids and slugs tend to be the worst pests. Aphids can be trimmed off and garbaged and slugs can be deterred with diatomaceous earth or copper tape along the rim of the container. Watering from above and overwatering may cause Alternaria Leaf Spot and Botrytis.
...appears as reddish round small spots with white or grey centers. These spots also can appear on the stems. Botrytis is a fungal disease that leads to a grey mold forming on all plant parts. Botrytis loves cool, wet weather conditions.
For a refreshing summer drink put a dozen stevia leaves into a pitcher, add boiling water to fill the pitcher, cover and chill in the fridge overnight. The next morning add freshly squeezed lemon juice to the mix; some ice in a glass and relax in the sun!
]]>The advantages of using coir as a soil additive instead of peat moss are many. Like peat, coir is a natural product that is made up of cellulose fibres that aerate the soil. It highly improves water retention, drainage, and helps to loosen clay- based soils.
Peat breaks down quite quickly requiring yearly applications. Coir is a very durable biodegradable organic material. It begins to degrade after two years and at a very slow rate. Coir can be added to indoor and outdoor soil mixes, vegetable and flower beds.
Coir rehydrates easily; holding up to 8 times its own weight in water. It is sold in bricks that need to be rehydrated in a wheel barrow and then can be mixed with other soil amendments or existing soil. Use 3-4 L of warm water. Wait 30 minutes then mix the coir until it feels like regular soil. You may need to break up the brick to move the process along and possibly more water.
Peat helps to acidify alkaline soils (pH of 3.5 – 4.5). The pH of coir is near neutral (5.7-6.5). Coir can have a high salt content so it is best to thoroughly rinse with more fresh water after rehydration. It is high in phosphorous (P) and potassium (K).
You can find coir seed starting kits on our shelves at Floral Acres. It also comes in brick form, coir - based seedling pellets (discs), and small 5cm.and 10 cm. diameter pot sizes.
Coir pellets/discs are housed within a biodegradable net. Place one or two seeds into the center of the pellet before or after hydration. Carefully pour warm water into the tray as per package directions. The pellet will expand, encasing the seed. Seeds can be started in the 5 cm., 7 cm. or 10 cm. pot size as well. When it comes time to transplant your seedlings out into the garden you can snip off some of the coir in a few areas of the pellet/pot. If you see roots coming out of the coir pellet/pot do not snip the sides.
Gardeners have long known the advantages of having earthworms populate their garden soil. As earthworms dig deep into the soil, the oxygen content of that soil increases. Their tunnels and trails let in air and water. Adding organic matter such as compost will attract earthworms to your garden. Add some coffee grounds to your compost and the earthworms will come from near and far. They love coffee grounds! Earthworms prefer a neutral pH soil but can live in soil with a pH between 5 and 8.
Worm castings are the unprocessed manure of earthworms. They contain some nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and 60 micronutrients! The castings are high in organic matter, good bacteria and slowly add those essential micronutrients to the soil. Worm castings can also be used in tropical soil for indoor plants. Be aware that they do not totally take the place of fertilizers; especially for those plants that need the macronutrients N, P, and K.
A small amount of worm castings can be mixed with your seed starting soil. They will provide your new seedlings with a safe, natural food for the new roots. I have used worm castings in tropical plant soil and in outdoor mixed containers. A little goes a long way. As with other fertilizers, do not add more than directed. More is not always better!
Another handy way to use worm castings is to steep the castings in water for a few hours and use that water to give your potted plants a boost. Cheesecloth works well as a ‘teabag’.
Worm castings can be stored up to 6 months or longer, away from light and at a constant temperature.
]]>One of the many gifts of spring are the early flowering plants such as tulips, daffodils and crocus. Another one of those tough beautiful bloomers is the cold tolerant annual pansy. Now when I say cold tolerant that does not mean we can put them out on the porch in freezing weather but they can stand very light frosts and soil temps of 7-18 degrees C. This cold tolerance makes them ideal for very early spring and fall containers.
Another bonus is that the whole flower is edible. They have a sweet, spicy, and mild lettuce taste, making them a beautiful garnish for salads and as candied decorations for desserts.
Pansies can be used in hanging baskets, mixed planters, window boxes and in flower beds. They like a bright to partly shady location and to be planted in a slightly acidic soil (pH 6.0-6.2).
To say that pansies come in a wide range of colors is an understatement. Pansies have been extensively hybridized and the result is many “series” or groups of pansy plants that share the same traits and characteristics such as size and flower pattern no matter the color.
Depending on the series (or group) of pansies the colors can be vibrant or muted and pale with different central whisker patterns, blotches or solid in color as well. The colors are shades of white, yellow, purple, blue, orange, red and even near black and variations of all the above. Some have ruffled flower petals, flat petals, and semi-double flowers.
The Bingo Series has very large flowers that come in fourteen colors. The Joker Series has very pronounced faces. The Bolero Series has ruffled, large, semi-double flowers.
Other series of pansies include Delta, Universal, Princess, Cool Wave (semi-trailing) and Wonderfall (trailing).
A mature pansy plant will range in size from 10-20 cm. in height by 15-20 cm. in spread. Sizes will be noted on the container tag. Look for bushy, stocky plants with dark green leaves.
Pansies are the February birth flower. They represent love and admiration.
Some people like to start their pansies from seed. Most pansy seeds are F1 hybrids and if you let them go to seed the new plants will not resemble the parents. This is not always a bad thing if you are a versatile type of gardener. You will likely get flowers that have reverted to one of the parents of the hybrid.
Pansy seed requires dark to germinate. Stratifying the seeds for 2 weeks helps improve germination. Once the new seedlings have two sets of true leaves you can transplant them to small pots. Put them in a bright location – never direct sun. Seedlings will need two weeks to harden off before planting outdoors.
I prefer buying my pansies in packs or planters at Floral Acres. They have an awesome range of varieties to choose from – most in full bloom when they hit the sales floor in early spring. If the days are still a bit chilly after you buy, harden them off outside on a warm day and bring them in at night for a week or two.
When planting outside remember that pansies are heavy feeders. This is especially true for pansies in planters, hanging baskets and window boxes. Regular watering and regular fertilizing with an all-purpose flowering plant fertilizer will keep them blooming until the summer heat hits. Deadheading will encourage more blooms. Make sure to use containers that have drainage holes.
Once the warm summer months are here the stems will “stretch” or elongate and fall over. They may start to set seed. This is the time to shear them back by approximately half which will encourage new growth and more blooms. This is not always a remedy to stretching. If the summer is intensely hot for a long period of time, they may not bounce back at all. So far breeding for heat tolerant pansies has not been successful.
The cool fall weather usually sees a re-emergence of pansies in the garden centers. You will find them displayed with other fall bloomers such as sunflowers, chrysanthemums, flowering cabbage, kale and dusty miller.
Slugs and sometimes aphids.
While the flowers of a pansy plant are edible, please note that the seeds are mildly toxic to humans and pets. Do not eat flowers that have been subject to pesticide spraying.
Pansy flowers contain salicylic acid, which is the main ingredient in aspirin. They also contain compounds called saponins that have expectorant and anti-inflammatory properties.
Panolas are a cross between violas and pansies. They are also cold hardy.
]]>Does walking into a garden centre sometimes feel like you have crossed over into a foreign land with a strange language all its own? As garden centre employees we sometimes forget how overwhelming it can be to step into our store the first time as a new gardener. Take, for example, the use of Latin in horticulture. The horticultural language used by ‘plant people’ is based on Latin which fell out of use centuries ago and is technically referred to as a ‘dead’ language. Because it is a dead language no new words have been created or changed through the years.
Common names of plants vary from region to region and country to country. One plant may have ten or more common names throughout the world.
Latin is used for creating scientific names which are consistent in any language. Latin plant names are used as a means of classifying or identifying specific plants. There is only one scientific or botanical name for a specific plant. No matter where you go in the world that plant will have only one Latin name.
For Example: The common names for a Mayday tree are hackberry, hagberry, bird cherry and Mayday. The Latin name for a Mayday tree is Prunus padus var. commutata. Using Latin names in the gardening world avoids a lot of confusion. It is used by all areas of the industry- plant propagators, growers, seed companies and garden centres alike. It puts us all on the same page. If you are looking for a specific plant, find its Latin name on the web before coming to the garden centre.
Photo courtesy of Natural Resources Canada
As a new gardener one should know the Hardiness Zone of their city or town. A hardiness zone “refers to a geographic area that encompasses a range of climatic conditions relevant to a plant’s growth and survival” (Para Space Land Services). In North America there are 13 zones in total with the higher numbers (9-13) indicating warmer regions while lower numbers (1-3) indicate zones that experience temperatures below freezing. In Canada there are no areas warm enough to go beyond zone 9. Victoria B.C. is considered a zone 9 while Saskatoon, Sk. is a 3. Many plants have a zone in which they are best suited. Look for the suggested zone on each plant tag. In Saskatoon, garden centre buyers focus on buying zone 3 plants in perennials, trees, shrubs, and vines.
Which leads us into the next gardening terms that one should know when shopping in your local garden centre; annuals, perennials, and biennials.
Annual Snapdragon
In spring Floral Acres has a huge section of benches (tables) that are devoted to annual plants. An Annual is a plant that completes its life cycle in one growing season. Annuals are sold in packs, 4-inch pots, 6 inch pots, 8,10 and 12 inch hanging baskets and patio planters. A pack usually contains four or six small plants and they come in black plastic trays called flats, making them easier to move and handle.
An example of 4 in. diameter and 6 in. diameter plant pots.
When we talk about four inch and six-inch pots, we are referring to the pot opening diameter, not the size of the plant. Knowing the zone requirements for annual plants is not required as they are just around for one growing season and would not survive a winter here in Saskatchewan. Examples of annual plants include petunias, snapdragons, impatiens, and marigolds.
Perennials – Perennials have their own department or section in the greenhouse as well. A perennial is a plant that survives our zone 3 climate from season to season. The top growth will die back closer to winter, but the root zone survives winter after winter. Perennials have a limited flowering period, some blooming for one month, while others bloom for three to four months. There is or should be a plant tag in every pot which tells you what zone the plant can be grown in and a generous amount of care and plant size information.
Biennial – A biennial is a plant that completes its life cycle in two growing seasons. In the first season they will produce roots, stems, and leaves. In the second season, they will produce flowers, fruits, and seeds, then die. Examples of biennial plants include carrots, beets, parsley, hollyhocks, and violas.
I mentioned Plant Tags (Labels) in a previous paragraph. Each pot in a garden centre should have a plant tag. The tags are full of information: A photo of the plant or plant’s flower, common name, scientific or Latin name, the mature height and spread, hardiness zone, sun exposure, water needs, suggested spacing between each plant in a garden bed, and bloom time. Keep your plant tags and if you have some favorite plants after the season is over, bring their tags with you next year to the garden centre.
Hardening - Off - This is a term used to describe slowing exposing a plant to cooler temperatures. Annuals, perennials, and vegetables lead quite a cushy lifestyle being raised in a greenhouse. They have not had to deal with the “outside” world, which is usually cooler, windier, and less forgiving than a greenhouse environment. Once you get your plants home in the spring begin exposing them to the outside world a few hours a day in a semi-shady, sheltered location. Gradually increase their time spent outside each day for about a week and slowly expose them to brighter light conditions if they are to be in sun. This especially applies to tomatoes who love a sunny location. They will experience leaf burn if you place them in the hot afternoon sun right away.
Daylilies are considered a drought tolerant perennial plant once established.
Drought Tolerant - A plant that can survive or thrive in low water conditions. I would like the words ‘once established’ behind this descriptor be included on plant tags. Drought tolerant does not mean you plant your plant in a dry, sunny spot and forget it. Plants must establish themselves first, get a root system going and produce some upper growth. This means being watered in the first growing season to encourage that process along. Once established, they can tolerate some drought if need be.
I hope to make Garden Centre Jargon for Beginners a monthly part of the Floral Acres blog section.
Let me know what you think in the comments below! Next month I’ll cover terms related to seeds, starting seeds, soil, and soil amendments. Until then, stay safe and stay warm.
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Decorating your fresh cut or artificial Christmas tree is always an enjoyable experience. If you have been planning ahead you have probably decided on a theme for your tree or will just wing it with a mix of ornaments.
A theme can be anything you want it to be! Possible themes are woodland, glass, birds, animals, blue, copper, white, angels, garden, snowflakes, and icicles - the list is endless. The sky is the limit.
Pre-test your strings of lights, checking for any burnt-out bulbs.
Unpack your ornaments and lay out any new decoration purchases on a nearby table or couch. Attach individual wire hangers to each ornament.
Once your tree is in the stand, turn the tree to see what side you would like to face out into the room. Of course, this is more important with a fresh cut natural tree. When the best side of the tree is determined, pull it out from the wall so you can easily light and decorate all sides. Artificial trees will need to be fluffed out and shaped to achieve that full tree look.
At this point consider laying down the tree skirt around the base of the tree. I find this much easier to do now than crawling under the tree when it is fully decorated. It will slide back in place with the tree after you are done decorating.
If you have a fresh cut tree the first thing to do is put on the lights. Always decorate with the tree lights on. Choice of light color is up to you and for a fun look for the kids, multi – colored lights are always the best. For a classy look that emits a glow and features the ornaments use clear or white lights. Most artificial trees on the market today are pre-lit with clear or multi- colored lights. Some cycle on and off, rotate through a sequence of colors/flashes and are remote controlled.
The suggested number of lights per tree is usually 100 lights for every vertical foot of tree.
Start to light your tree from the bottom up and from the inside out. Wrap your lights from the inside outward along each branch of the tree, cross over to the next branch tip on the same layer and wind the lights down the branch toward the trunk. Work in a circle around the tree lighting every tree branch. Move up to the next layer and continue to add strings of lights as you move up and around the tree. This method of lighting a tree gives your tree that inner glow that radiates out into a room.
Do not forget to step back once in awhile to take in the full effect. That way you can fill in any empty spots before moving up the tree with the lights. If you end up with extra lights at the top, just wind them back down the tree trunk. While you are up at the top of the tree add the tree topper. A tree topper can be anything; an angel, sprays of decorative berries, bows that sparkle with their tails trailing down the tree or a favorite stuffed animal from your childhood.
If you choose to use garland on your tree, use the same garland from top to bottom. Wide ribbon makes a wonderful garland. Long chains of crystals again add more reflective light throughout the tree. Cranberry garland looks especially good on a natural or woodland themed tree.
As with the lights, make sure you add some decorations deep in the tree toward the trunk. Clear glass ornaments are especially good as interior decorations as they catch the light and give the tree depth.
If you have a lot of ball ornaments that are the same, consider grouping them into threes, tying them together with a ribbon and space each group throughout the tree. A mix of grouped and single ornaments adds extra interest to a tree. One of the most beautiful ten- foot Christmas trees I have ever seen was nothing more than clear lights, loaded with different sizes and colors of plain ball ornaments. It was finished off with a few larger -than- life artificial red poinsettias.
Once again stand back once in awhile to survey your handiwork! Take your time and enjoy the process. Once you have your decorations on, fill in any extra spaces by inserting ribbon bows, artificial sprays of berry stems, colorful branches, or large pinecones. Whatever will finish off your theme and help fill-in the tree.
Remember there is no one ‘right way’ to decorate your Christmas tree. The tips above are only suggestions and hopefully helpful tips! Do what makes you and your family happy-that is the most important of all.
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With Christmas 2021 fast approaching it’s time to plant an Amaryllis for a gorgeous seasonal display that can last for weeks. If you are new to gardening, an amaryllis in bloom is an awesome and beautiful sight to behold. They make a perfect hostess gift and are so easy to grow!
Amaryllis ( Hippeastrum) are native to South Africa, who along with Holland are the biggest suppliers of the bulbs to the rest of the world. They come in colors and variations of red, orange, pink, white and salmon.
Most amaryllis varieties will bloom six to eight weeks after planting. Bloom time will vary with different varieties; some blooming after 10 weeks. If you want a continuous floral display through the Christmas holiday season, choose a combination of varieties and plant them a few days apart starting in early November. For variety bloom time, check the label with the bulb or the internet. Amaryllis also make awesome cut flowers, lasting two to three weeks in a vase with regular water changes.
Amaryllis are usually sold in a gift box complete with the bulb, pot and soil; loose in bare bulb form or potted up and in bud. I have tried them all and do prefer using the loose bare bulb and to do the potting myself.
An amaryllis bulb has enough food stored in the bulb to grow and bloom. In the case of amaryllis bulbs, bigger is better as the largest bulbs may produce more than one stem. The number of stems produced also depends on the variety. When selecting a bulb gently squeeze it to make sure there are no soft spots (indicating rot). Amaryllis bulbs should be firm.
Individually pot the bulb into a 6 or 8 inch pot with drainage holes. Choose a heavy pot to hold your bulb as amaryllis are shallow rooted and top heavy when in bloom. You can also plant the bulb into a plastic pot and insert that into a heavier decorative pot. If you want to create a real statement piece, plant three bulbs in a heavy 12 -14 inch diameter low ceramic bowl.
The soil used for amaryllis potting should be a tropical plant soil mixed with an extra handful of perlite to facilitate good drainage and soil airflow.
Prepare the bulb for planting by placing the bottom of the bulb with roots in a shallow bowl of lukewarm water for a few hours.
Plant the bulb with the pointed end up. Fill in with more soil around the bulb, leaving about one third of the bulb above the soil line. Water lightly until you see about 2 inches of new stem growth. From then on water regularly making sure you do not pour water over the bulb itself. Never let your amaryllis sit in water as this will cause root rot.
Amaryllis prefer bright, indirect light. Some bulbs will grow leaves first; others will send up a flower stalk first and leaves later. Make sure you turn the pot often so the stalk grows straight. Each stalk will produce one or more flowers at its tip. You may also want to provide a support for the stalk. Red Dogwood twigs look very unique as decorative stakes. Do not fertilize. Remember the bulb has enough food to complete its flowering phase. If multiple buds are on a stalk, they may not all flower at once. When the flowers are finished, snip them off where they meet the tip of the stem. When all the flowers have finished, cut the entire stalk back to within one to two inches of the bulb.
The good news is you do not need to throw out your amaryllis bulb after flowering. Some people have kept their amaryllis flowering for years. Closer to spring begin to feed your plant every two weeks with an all- purpose houseplant fertilizer. Water regularly. Leaves will continue to be produced, which help create energy for next year’s bloom. You can even gradually introduce your amaryllis to a sunny spot outside once all danger of frost is past.
Around the middle of August, gradually begin to withhold water and let the leaves die back naturally.
Let the pot dry out completely. This gives the bulb a rest period, beginning about the beginning of September. Place the bulb in a dry, dark and cool place for about 8 weeks. Do not water during this time.
In late October repot the bulb in new soil and begin to enjoy the flowering process all over again!
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In the past few years, foliage plants have become quite popular. There is a renewed interest in the beauty of different textures, shapes, and colors of leaves that when combined create a unique visual display indoors or out.
There are none more unique and outstanding than Caladiums.
Caladiums are beautiful, colorful foliage plants that are native to South American tropical forests. There are over 1000 cultivars of Caladium; each with its own unique leaf color and pattern. Depending on the variety, some of the leaves are huge, while others produce smaller but equally colorful, patterned foliage.
Caladiums are actually tubers that create leaves from spring to fall. They can be grown indoors or out in spring and summer. In our climate, they are usually grown in pots as while they can go outside in spring and summer, they cannot tolerate our fall frosts and winters. When fall approaches they begin to transition into a dormancy rest period for about 5 months and will produce new growth in spring. During the rest period they should be brought into the house before the first fall frosts occur.
There are two main leaf types; fancy and strap-leaf. The fancy varieties have heart-shaped leaves and the strap-leaf have narrower arrow shaped foliage. They all like warmth and humidity.
Most caladium varieties like a part-sun to shady location outdoors. The newer thick- leaf varieties can tolerate bright light. If you are growing them indoors locate them in a bright room but no direct sun. Too much sun scorches the leaves. A north or east window exposure is best away from drafty doors or windows. Extra humidity in the house is required. The easiest way to raise the humidity around the plant is to place it on a tray of pebbles. Keep this tray filled with water but never let the pot sit directly in the pebbles.
Ideally caladiums need to be in planted in spring in a rich, somewhat peat moss based acidic soil. The container should have excellent drainage. Each tuber has a large central bud. To encourage bushiness, lift out the large central bud with the tip of a sharp knife. This will result in a bushier plant.
Tubers should be planted 2.5 to 5 cm. deep with the eye buds facing up. Water well. Do not water again until you see bud/ leaf growth or the soil becomes very dry. You want to avoid root rot at all costs as this can lead to plant death.
As your caladium matures, water weekly. Fertilize in spring and summer once every two weeks with a ¼ strength all- purpose water- soluble fertilizer such as 20-20-20.
As late fall approaches, you will notice the leaves beginning to yellow and eventually fall over. You have two options:
Whatever method you choose, store your tubers in a dark and dry location, no cooler than 18 degrees Celsius. Do not water during the rest period.
Repot your tubers into new soil in the spring. This is also the time to divide large tubers and let them dry for a couple of days before dusting with fungicide (bulb dust) and planting into the new soil.
Water well and reintroduce them to bright light in the house or outside in part shade after the last spring frost.
Caladiums are toxic if ingested and may irritate the skin. They are especially toxic to cats and dogs.
Caladiums rarely flower.
]]>Terrestrial cacti are epiphytes that grow in trees, other plants and on rocks in sub-tropical and tropical areas of the world. For the purposes of this article, we will focus on the second type; desert cacti.
Purchasing a cactus is often a person’s first foray into the indoor gardening world. Cacti are the ideal first plant as they are easy to grow, maintain, and yes, they even produce flowers. Cacti are also ideal for the person who wants to experience growing plants but realistically does not have the time to spend hours on care.
There are two groups of cacti. Terrestrial cacti are epiphytes that grow in trees, other plants and on rocks in sub-tropical and tropical areas of the world. For the purposes of this article, we will focus on the secondtype; desert cacti that are often spiny, hairy or both. Their shapes vary considerably, are unique and collectible. An added bonus is that desert cacti do flower, and their blooms are often large and spectacular.
In their native habitats desert cacti are known to be extremely tough and if need be, can go for up to two years without water! Indoor cacti roots are restricted by their pots and must be watered in their growing seasons of spring and summer to do well in your home.
There are thousands of cacti species and varieties. There are just as many variations in flower color – pinks, blues, reds, oranges, whites, yellows, and color combinations too numerous to list.
I have two tips for beginning to collect cacti:
1. Research your purchase on the internet. Know the species and what care is recommended.
2. While you are on the net, join an indoor cacti group or club where growing information can be shared! There are as many cacti collectors in the world as varieties of cacti! Most are eager to share their knowledge.
Here are a few growing tips to get you started:
To successfully grow cacti, you must have a bright light location. 4 hours plus of sunlight per day. While cacti usually grow in full sun, be aware that glass windows magnify the sun’s intensity. Even cacti can burn. If your cacti brown or yellow on the side facing the window, that means that they are in too much sun.
Cacti will also grow toward a sunny window causing the plant to lean. Turn your cacti once a month to avoid excessive leaning as they grow.
In our area of the world, cacti in pots put on a spurt of new growth spring and summer. This means they must be watered when the soil totally dries out and checked regularly for water needs. Like other plants cacti do need water during the growing season. Pay particular attention to small pots as they tend to dry out quickly. Larger cacti can be left longer between watering. In winter cut back on the watering as most cacti go into dormancy because of shorter days with less sun hours. This does not mean that you should never water during winter. If your cacti begin to shrivel, wrinkle and yellow, it’s time to water. If it turns pale and starts to buckle and lean, you are overwatering. Err on the side of too dry as opposed too wet.
The best pots for cacti are those made of terra cotta or ceramic with drainage holes. Terracotta allows air to pass in and out of the root ball area. “Cure” the terra cotta by first soaking the pots in water for 1-2 hours. This prevents the clay from wicking any water away from the soil and plant roots. Cover the drainage holes with a coffee filter.
The proper soil for growing cacti is a very porous, sandy, fast draining soil. You can mix your own but pre-mixed cacti- succulent soil is available pre-packaged.
Repot cacti in spring and summer. When repotting, keep in mind that most cacti have shallow roots and will only need a new pot every 2 to 4 years. Younger cacti in smaller pots should be repotted every year. A sure sign that a cactus needs repotting are roots coming out of the pot’s drain holes.
Before repotting, arm yourself with a pair of leather gloves and wide plastic tongs. For larger cacti use a few pages of rolled up newspaper that will give you a firm grip around the cactus when lifting it out of the old pot and into the new one.
Take the cactus out of the pot and trim off any obvious dead or rotting roots. Let the cactus root-ball air dry on its own for a day or so. The new pot should be 2 inches in diameter larger than the previous container. Once repotted with new soil, allow a couple of days for recovery in low light before you water and put it back in bright light. Newly repotted cacti do not need fertilizer for 2 months.
Fertilize established pots in spring and summer only with an all -purpose cacti and succulent fertilizer. Apply every 2 months. Begin to fertilize when you see new growth in spring.
Cacti can be propagated by stem cuttings, or by offsets (offshoots/pups)
Both stem cuttings and pups can be cut from the mother plant and left out in the air a couple of days for the cut ends to callous over. Once calloused over, dip the cuttings into Rooting Hormone No.1, shake off the excess and lightly push the calloused end into the new potting soil. Firm soil around the cutting/pup. Let the cacti recover for a couple of days before lightly watering.
Cacti are living organisms and occasionally are subject to fungus, disease, and insect problems. Cacti insect pests include mealybugs and scale. Check your cacti often for any signs of disease or pests.
]]>When you visit a garden centre you no doubt have seen houseplants called Bromeliads. I am like many of you in that I often shied away from buying them as they look beautiful, you want to purchase one, but aren’t they just too finicky and hard to grow? In this blog I am here to say do not hesitate to give them a try! Like any plant they have certain growing rules they live by but none of them are difficult and if you follow these easy guide - lines you will have bromeliads for years to come.
Bromeliads are native to north, central and South America. There are too many species to count – lets just say in the thousands. They are a very diverse group; an unending choice of flower colors, textures, sizes and forms. Their leaves can be thin, broad and strap-like, soft or have spines on the tips. Those with thick upright foliage usually are in the shape of a rosette forming a cup or tank in the middle. They are also relatives of the pineapple! Bromeliads are slow growers, sometimes taking 1 to 3 years to mature. They like indoor temperatures of 16 – 27 degrees C. and appreciate a tray of pebbles under their pot that you can refill with water for extra humidity.
Bromeliads are divided into two categories – epiphytic and terrestrial. Epiphytic plants are those which cling to trees and absorb nutrients through their leaves. The roots are there to help anchor the plant to the tree. Orchids and Air Plants are also epiphytic plants. Terrestrial bromeliads grow on rocks or in a fast - draining soil, usually under the rainforest tree canopy. There are also varieties that grow in drier environments .
It is important to know the common and latin name of the bromeliad(s) you take home. This will take a bit of internet research or may be on the plant tag. Many genera and species have different growing and bloom initiation requirements. These requirements are not difficult but to have the best growing success, it is good to know the name.
As houseplants both epiphytic and terrestrial bromeliads are grown in a pot containing a fast draining, and porous potting mix. This is more for the benefit of the bromeliad grower that must deal with thousands of bromeliads at a time. Pots are also easier to manage in the garden centre and at home.
Most bromeliads that you bring home require bright, indirect light. If your bromeliad has soft, spineless leaves it prefers lower light levels. The leaves will turn yellow if there is too much light. Bromeliads with stiff, hard leaves prefer bright, indirect light. Do not put any of them in full sun.
The most important requirement of bromeliad soil is that it is fast draining and somewhat acidic. The soil should be moist but not soggy. Never let the pot sit in water. A good soilless mix to use is equal parts sphagnum peat moss, perlite, and fine to medium orchid bark. Before mixing the potting ingredients, drench the orchid bark in boiling water and soak it for 2-3 hours.
If your bromeliad has a central cup you can fill this cup ¼ to ½ full of water. It is best to use distilled water as hard water or softened water can leave mineral deposits behind that hurt the plant. Make sure to flush the water from this central cup once a week and replace with fresh distilled water.
If you choose to keep water in the cup, water the soil mix sparingly during the growing season. Bromeliads prefer to be on the dry side as opposed to being too wet. Reduce watering during the winter as well.
If your bromeliad develops brown and drying leaves this may be due to a lack of soil water, lack of cup/tank water or a lack of humidity.
Bromeliads are not heavy feeders. Most bromeliads have similar nutritional requirements. Use an all - purpose orchid food at 1/8 to ¼ strength. The most important recommendation here is not to use a fertilizer with too much nitrogen (the first number on the bottle). Fertilize once a month from April to August while the plant is actively growing. Mix the fertilizer and water the soil. Mist the plant leaves with the same mix. Remember they also take in nutrients through their leaves. Do not fill the central cup /tank with fertilizer water. Even a week is too long for it to sit in the cup. This will lead to foliage burn or rot.
Bromeliads have a winter dormant stage like most houseplants and do not require fertilization. You will not have to water as often in the winter. Keep a tablespoon or two of distilled water in the tank and flush/replace weekly.
The most impressive part of a bromeliad is its ‘flower’. The actual flowers are small and rather insignificant. The flowers are surrounded by colorful and showy bracts that can be red, green, purple, pink, orange or yellow. This beautiful and unique floral display will last for months. Just before the bromeliad started to bloom it stopped all leaf growth. Do not expect to see new leaves forming at this stage.
Most mature bromeliads will only bloom once. Do not take it personally when the ‘mother’ plant dies after blooming. The flower will start to brown and the mother plant will slowly decline over a period of months. While this happens she will begin to create new bromeliads called offsets or pups at her base near the soil. The pups are clones of their mother. When the flower finally dies, you can cut the flower spike off at its base. The mother plant will direct her energy into creating more pups.
The longer the pups remain on the mother plant, the better. Once the pups reach half the size of the mother plant and forming their own cups, you can remove them. Some pups may develop roots while still on the mother. This is a bonus, but not absolutely necessary for a pup to survive.
Carefully cut the pups off the mother plant with a sterilized sharp knife. Keep the cut as close to the mother as possible. If you removed any soil, put it back around the mother plant. She may produce more pups.
After you remove the pups, dip the cut ends in rooting hormone. Shake off any excess. Pot them up into 4 inch or 6 inch pots that contain the bromeliad growing medium. If the plant is top heavy it is wise to stake each pup until it produces a decent root system. Keep some distilled water in the pup’s cup and replace weekly.
At this stage each pup needs warmth, light and humidity. Keep the growing medium moist but not soggy. An ideal growing environment would be a warm room with good morning light in the summer and shade for the rest of the day. Pebble trays under the pots increase the humidity.
Bromeliad pups will take 1-3 years to reach maturity; depending on the species. Only after a bromeliad reaches maturity will flowering occur. Often some bromeliads are reluctant to flower and need some encouragement by using the process of ‘forcing’. Before forcing drain the water out of the pup’s tank.
Forcing bromeliads can be achieved by putting the bromeliad, pot and all into a large clear plastic bag. Drop in a few pieces of ripe apple and tightly close the bag. The ripe apple will produce ethylene gas which initiates flowering process. Put the bagged bromeliad in a shady area for 7-10 days and then remove it from the bag. Do not fertilize your bromeliad 2 weeks before you start to force the bloom until 2 weeks after the bloom begins. In 6-14 weeks the bromeliad will start to show signs of bloom development. Keep temperatures warm at night on a consistent basis – 18 degrees C is ideal. As you can see this is quite the exercise in patience but rewarding if you can take a bromeliad from pup to bloom!
For the most part bromeliads are relatively free of pest and diseases. At times they are prone to spider mites, aphids and scale. To help deter these pests I would recommend putting your bromeliad(s) in a warm shower once in awhile. Just make sure to refill the cup with distilled water.
Bromeliads are not toxic to humans and animals. People who are allergic to latex should exercise caution as the sap from these plants may cause an allergic reaction.
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Right now your garden is looking its best and what better way to preserve your flowers, herbs and leaves than pressing them in a book or a wooden flower press. This is a wonderful way to preserve memories of special occasions and is a relaxing hobby that is not expensive.
The oldest preserved flowers were found in a Roman tomb in Egypt. They were 2000 years old!
In the 1500s Japan and China began to create beautifully framed pictures of pressed flowers.
Victorian people (1700s) adored flowers and used them, not only for special occasions, but as part of their everyday life. They took up the hobby of pressing flowers when economic trade began between Japan and England. Both men and women kept botanical scrapbooks. Botanists created herbarium sheets which were a collection of pressed plants for educational purposes and research. Herbarium sheets are still used today in horticultural colleges and are created by the students as a spring and summer project.
In the 1800s the art of flower pressing came to the United States where it was a popular past time in the winter to create beautiful works of art. Many people today remember finding pressed flowers in old books and the family bible.
During the current pandemic crafts and creating art of all types have once more become popular. Pressing flowers is a relaxing, creative process and can be enjoyed by adults and kids alike.
Photo: Pixabay
The best time of day to collect flowers, herbs and leaves is the early morning after the dew is off the plants and early evening. Keep a container and small pruners /scissors accessible in the garden shed. Flowers that press well are a
Apple/Crabapple blossoms, Larkspur, Queen Anne’s Lace, California Poppy, Nicotiana, Pansies/Violas, Clover and Sweet Peas. Perennials such as Heuchera also press well and keep their beautiful leaf colors.
Press your daily collections right away! It does not take flowers long to wilt once removed from the main plant.
No matter what method of pressing you use, the flowers first must be sandwiched between two pieces of parchment paper, non-waxed white tissue paper or blotting paper. Do not use textured white paper or paper towels. The paper draws any moisture out of the flowers. If the flowers are particularly thick it is probably best to double up on the ‘sandwich’ paper or take them apart, petal by petal. You can also cut the flower and it’s stem in half and place both cut side down on the blotting paper. Obviously this will take more time but the creative options using single petals are endless.
I would highly recommend writing the name(s) of the flowers on the top of each sandwich page and the date they were pressed. Make your sandwich paper a little bigger than the book so the flower names and dates will be peeking out the top of your pressing book. This way you will not have to disturb the flowers to check on them until the drying time is up.
Position each bloom face down on the paper – not touching- before placing your sandwich between the pages of a large thick book. Do not use books you highly value; they may become wrinkled and marked. Weigh the book down with additional books, bricks or anything else that weighs a lot and offers even weight distribution.
If you are using a flower press, place your flower sandwich between two pieces of pre-cut cardboard before inserting the whole unit into the press. Believe it or not, the book method takes less time to dry and press flowers than a flower press. I have tried and had success with both methods. I still like the old-fashioned book method the best.
Do not disturb your pressed flowers for at least a month. If you check and the flowers still stick to the white paper, leave them to dry longer. It is an exercise in patience!
Remove the delicate dried flowers with tweezers.
Another popular way to press flowers is the ironing method
1-2 days before you iron, place your flowers - not touching - between two pieces of parchment paper. Place all inside your pressing book to begin the pressing process.
Empty all the water out of the iron. Set the dial to the lowest, driest heat setting. High heat can turn the flowers brown.
Remove the flowers and parchment paper from the pressing book and transfer to the ironing board.
Press straight down with your iron on each section of the parchment paper for 10 seconds. Longer than that will brown the flowers. Do not glide the iron across the paper. Let each section cool down and repeat a few times if necessary. Gently lift the top paper to check on the flowers. If they are dry, you are done. The whole process should take about 5 minutes or less. Again, remove the pressed flowers with tweezers.
Pressed flowers are especially fun to use on cards, in scrapbooks, mixed media journals, gardening journals and craft time with the kids. You can create large or small framed artwork as well. There really is no ‘right’ way to layer and arrange your flowers. Do arrange the flowers with tweezers first on your archival acid-free paper. Once you are happy with your design, take a picture to use as a guide and lightly glue or use tiny pieces of double-sided tape to affix your flowers onto another piece of the same type of paper. You can also buy archival acid-free adhesives online or at the craft store. Gently place your artwork behind glass in a beautiful frame and viola! A personal garden masterpiece forever!
]]>Creating your own planters is a fun and rewarding DIY project! The plant colors and combinations are endless.
Creating your own planters is a fun and rewarding DIY project! The plant colors and combinations are endless. This can make choosing plants for your mixed planters a bit of a challenge. Below I have listed a few helpful hints to make the process a little less intimidating and a lot more enjoyable!
Pictures Your cell phone camera is an invaluable resource in the process of making planters. Take pictures of the empty planters, their final location(s) in the yard or on the patio, and your outdoor house color. Take note of how the planters will be viewed. Will they be viewed from three sides, all sides or from straight on in a corner. Think about grouping different sizes of pots for a more dramatic effect.
Visit Floral Acres Make a scouting trip to Floral Acres and take pictures of their planters, window boxes and hanging basket combinations. Their plant combinations are always exceptional and will give you some much needed inspiration. You will no doubt come out with some great ideas and a few plants you adopted along the way!
Color Scheme Determine a color scheme or be bold and mix colors and leaf textures for a beautiful blast of color on the patio or front door area. Purchase a color wheel or find one on the net to help you determine your color scheme. Do you prefer complementary colors, monochromatic, pastels, hot or cool color combinations?
Location Will your planters be in a sun, part-shade or a shady location?
Mix It Up! Be open to using annuals, perennials, small shrubs and tropicals. Yes, I said perennials, shrubs and tropical plants. This gives one a wider choice of plants for shady areas in particular. There is nothing more awesome in a large shade planter than to include a hosta or two, ferns, ligularia or astilbe. As long as they have the same exposure and moisture requirements as the annuals you are using the sky is the limit. A snake plant or agave in a succulent planter is a dramatic addition. At the end of the season remove the perennials and replant in the garden or gift them to friends and neighbors. Tropicals can be repotted and kept inside for the winter.
Use Different Foliage Textures Do not shy away from using different foliage combinations when creating your planters. Foliage such as potato vines, ivies, ferns, alternanthera, grasses (purple fountain grass or King Tut), coleus, hosta, iresine, caladium and various herbs. Be aware that plants such as mint will overtake a planter. They are great on their own in a grouping of pots but otherwise be careful!
Create a Focal Point With a Shrub For the ultimate low maintenance planter use a shrub or evergreen such as an upright cedar, small hydrangea, ninebark, gold flame spirea or an ever-blooming shrub rose. These can also go in the garden for the winter when the season is over. Make an individual shrub in a large planter your focal point and arrange smaller planters beneath that contain color or more greenery.
Use Pots/Containers With Drainage Holes Drainage is very important. To prevent the soil from washing out the drainage hole, cover the opening with a coffee filter or two. Taller large planters may need stability such as rocks or bricks in the bottom of the pot.
Soil – Most planters will be fine with a top-quality planter box mix as the main soil mix. Mix in compost for an extra boost of nutrient goodness. Succulent planters will need a porous fast draining mix.
Water – Use plants in mixed containers that have the same moisture requirements. Planters that contain a lot of plants will fill the pot quickly with roots and rapidly use up the nutrients in the soil as well. Check for water needs daily.
Fertilizer - Mix a slow-release pelleted fertilizer into the soil when filling your containers. This is probably the easiest way to make sure your plants are getting enough nutrients. Otherwise use a water- soluble fertilizer at half strength every two weeks during the growing season.
How Many Plants Per Pot? - There is no magic answer to this question. The number of plants per pot depends on the mature size of the plants used and the diameter of the pot. I think it is safe to say that the most visually awesome looking planters contain quite a few plants. There is, however, a formula for planting containers I highly recommend. The Proven Winners company came up with this formula to help gardeners create an awesome planter every time. Go to the Proven Winners website for planter recipes with great color combos and suggested number of plants per pot.
The formula is simple. A great looking planter should have a thriller, a filler, and a spiller. The thriller is the main focal point plant and is usually the tallest or most unique plant in the pot. A tall narrow trellis in a patio planter with a climbing vine would be considered a thriller. The filler is just that- a plant that will fill the middle of the planter. A medium sized petunia would be considered a filler. Lastly the spiller is a plant that spills over the edge of the container giving the whole thing visual balance. Potato vine, ivies, dichondra and trailing lobelias are considered spillers. There may be only one thriller per planter but numerous fillers and spillers.
A patio water feature can become a planter of sorts as well. Fill a large diameter low bowl with water and a few different water plants. Surround this focal point on three sides with different levels of colorful planters. Include a small fish tank pump for aeration!
Remember planters can be created in spring, summer and fall. Think about changing up your planters each season. And most of all don’t sweat the small stuff- just have fun!
All Photos Courtesy of www.provenwinners.com. This blog is for information purposes only.
]]>During the February 2021 deep freeze I continue to think positively by looking forward to summer and barbecue season! In this DIY second blog for March I I hope to give you some guidance on how you can grow two culinary herbs used not only during the summer for barbecues but all year long in too many great recipes to mention. Basil and rosemary are worldwide favorite herbs and they are surprisingly easy to grow. Let’s take a look!
Basil belongs to the mint family and can be grown outdoors and inside during our winters in Saskatoon. This herb not only smells and tastes good, it provides us with the nutritional value of vitamins C, K, B6 and A. It is also a good source of Omega 3 fatty acids, iron manganese and magnesium. The leaves are full of flavor enhancing pestos, salads, bruschetta, and spaghetti sauces. The flowers can be used as a garnish or in salads and oils.
There are many varieties of basil. The most popular is Sweet Basil (Genovese). Other favorites include purple, lemon, lime, Thai, cinnamon and spicy globe just to name a few! All have their own unique basil flavor and the flower colors include white, pink and purple. One of my favorites is spicy globe which is packed full of basil flavor. It is a small plant that is perfect for small containers or spaces.
Basil has a packaged seed life of about 3 years. Start basil seeds indoors about 6-8 weeks before the last spring frost date. To be safe, this is usually May 31 on the prairies. Do not rush putting basil transplants outdoors. Night time temperatures should be at least plus 10C. Without heat, basil will not grow or not grow well. Because of this, I like to plant my basil in pots so they can be kept close to the back door which faces south. Makes it easy to harvest quickly and can be moved inside during stormy weather.
Start basil seed in four inch pots in a half and half mix of seed starter ‘soil’ and a rich organic black soil. This reduces transplant frequency. It is important to use pots with good drainage. Plant a few basil seeds in each pot and put them in a grower tray to catch water. Cover the seeds lightly with soil, gently moisten with warm water and cover with a plastic tray dome. Place the tray in a warm room. At this point light needs do not matter as basil will germinate in the dark as well as light. Do not water again until the seeds have germinated. I have used heat mats in the past with great success to help the germination process. I had almost a 100 % germination rate and enough basil seedlings to fill a small greenhouse! You do not need a heat mat though as just a warm location that is around 15 to 21 degrees C in your home is enough.
Check daily for germination and once the seeds have germinated, remove the dome. Place the pot tray in a sunny windowsill. Basil needs at least 6 hours of sunlight per day.
Keep the soil moist but not soggy. Once the plants have a set or two of true leaves* pinch all but the two strongest seedlings off at soil level. This avoids disturbing the roots. When you have 3-4 pair of leaves, fertilize with a very weak all- purpose fertilizer solution. When the seedlings have 6 to 8 leaves also pinch each plant back to just above the second set of leaves. This encourages the plant to produce more leaves and fill out. Once the four inch pots have filled out, you can transplant the basil into their final summer pots. Use a compost rich soil and containers that have good drainage. When the weather is warmer (first part of June) place the pots outdoors to harden off for one week in a sheltered location. Bring inside at night. With each 6 to 8 leaves on a branch pinch back to the stems first set of leaves. If the plants begin to show signs of budding and flowering, pinch-off the flower buds.
If a basil plant is allowed to flower, it will turn the leaf flavor very bitter. Harvest leaves early in the morning if possible. The oils in the leaves are at their peak during this time.
Once the basil plants are hardened off, place them in a sheltered location that receives 6-8 hours of sun per day. You may need to provide a bit of shade from the mid- day sun. Again keep the soil moist but not soggy. Water in the morning at soil level. If you have used a good quality soil mix there will be no need to fertilize. Too much fertilizer will kill the plant’s flavor. Keep pinching off leaves so the plant keeps growing. Check daily for water needs. Do not use insecticides during the growing season.
I’m of the opinion that you can never have enough basil but unless you have friends and relatives that can use some, you will have to store the excess. The best storage method to keep the flavor is freezing. Wash the leaves and stems and let them dry. Place in a freezer bag and freeze.
Basil can also be grown inside on a sunny windowsill or under grow lights during the winter. Plant growth in a windowsill location will definitely slow down due to short winter day length. When a seed germinates, the first set of ‘leaves’ are called cotyledons; the next set of leaves and following plant leaves are called true leaves.
Believe it or not, rosemary also belongs to the mint family. It is a fragrant perennial evergreen herb that originated in the Mediterranean. Flower color can be white, pink, purple or blue; depending on variety. It was used by the Greeks and Romans to fend off evil spirits. We use it as a culinary herb for grilling meat, fish and making focaccia bread.
Rosemary is notoriously difficult to start from seed. The germination rate is very poor. For that reason rosemary is usually started from stem cuttings.
Prepare a grower tray with four inch pots as per basil but mix up equal parts of perlite, vermiculite and peat moss. Moisten this soil mix with warm water but it should not be soggy.
Snip off a few 3 inch pieces of rosemary from the tips of the mother plant. You may have to buy a few four inch pots from Floral Acres if this is your first year growing rosemary. By the end of the summer you will have one or more mother plants to bring inside and use for propagating next spring!
Remove the leaves on the bottom 2/3 of each cutting. Rubbing the leaves along the stem will easily remove the leaves. Dust each bare stem with Stim Root number 1 rooting hormone. A very light dusting is adequate. Insert one or two stems in each four inch pot. Mist top of soil with warm water and cover with a dome or a plastic bag until roots begin to form.
Place in a bright light location- no direct sun. Check daily for water needs and root growth. There is no need to fertilize rosemary at any time during its growth.
Once there is some root growth, remove the tray cover and place in a sunny south window. Monitor for water needs as usual. Do not overwater as this will cause certain plant death. After the last spring frost date you can transplant your cuttings into their summer pots and harden them off in a sheltered location. Use a sandy, well- draining soil. Terra cotta pots* are the best for holding rosemary plants as they allow the root system to breathe. During this establishment period make sure you check for water daily. Rosemary does not give any visual clues that it needs water. Wait until the top 2” of the soil is dry and then water. Once the plants have rooted well you can cut back on watering frequency. Rosemary is drought tolerant once established. Place in a full sun location that receives 6-8 hours of direct sun per day.
Once the plants have started their summer growth you can harvest as much as 1/3 of the plant at a time. Harvest the tips of the stems and make the cuts just above a leaf joint. The best leaf favor is just before flowering. Rosemary flowers are edible and best eaten fresh. They have a slightly sweet and mild flavor.
Rosemary can be stored by drying and stripping the leaves off the stems when dry. It can be dried on paper towel, in a food dehydrator or bundled and hung to dry. When leaves start to fall off the stem it is dry enough for storage. It will retain its wonderful fragrance even when dry but do store in an airtight container.
Rosemary is a perennial so your pots can be brought inside for the winter for a rest. Keep in a warm room in a sunny window. Reduce watering frequency as the plant will grow very little during the winter. The following spring you can take cuttings and repot your mother plants. Rosemary leaves will begin to yellow when the plant is root bound and needs to be repotted.
*When using terra cotta pots, soak them in water for a few hours before filling with soil. This will prevent the pots from wicking away the water from the soil after planting.
]]>The most common orchid gifted on the day of love is the Phalaenopsis or Moth orchid.
Orchids are the ultimate floral Valentine’s Day gift! The most common orchid gifted on the day of love is the Phalaenopsis or Moth orchid. They come in many colors and their blooms seem to last forever. But what do you do with this plant after the flowers die? To understand the answer you first have to know a little about this popular orchid.
Phalaenopsis orchids are epiphytes meaning they do not require soil to survive. They grow in trees in parts of Australia, India and the Philippines. Phals are anchored to the trees by their long green roots which take in moisture and air. As a gift plant the roots are often packed with moss. This stabilizes the plant in the pot but does not let the roots breathe as they should. If possible, carefully remove some of the moss so the roots are not suffocating. Make sure the pot has very good drainage so water can run straight through the moss. Do not let them sit in water for extended periods of time. Many people put their Phalaenopsis orchid pot in a larger ceramic pot with pebbles in the bottom. Any excess drainage water collected provides extra humidity for the plant.
Phalaenopsis orchids like a bright light location but no direct sun. Water every 7 days with warm water. At this time you can add a tiny pinch of orchid fertilizer to the water and let it thoroughly saturate the moss and drain through. You will notice that the roots of the orchid will often be seen as escaping the pot! This is entirely normal and when watering make sure you give these external roots a bath as well. Avoid using softened water.
When flowering is over and the stem or spike starts to turn brown cut the spike off completely leaving a couple of stem nodes at the base. This allows the plant to gather more energy to prepare for the next bloom cycle.
This is the time to repot your orchid. Carefully remove the orchid from its existing pot and gently remove any moss or bark around the root system. You can also rinse the roots with warm water and trim off any brown or black mushy roots.
New tan or green sphagnum moss is the best for repotting. This is my personal preference but I know many people like to use orchid bark. It is critical that the roots are able to breathe! The new pot should be a bit larger than the existing orchid pot and have side and bottom slots to increase drainage and aeration around the roots. Place some moss in the bottom of the new pot and then place your orchid base on top of this. Fill in around the roots with more moss but do not pack it in. Water with warm water and let it thoroughly drain. Place in your ceramic outer pot for stability.
Your Phalaenopsis orchid will now grow new roots and 1-2 new leaves to prepare for a new flower spike (s). Again add a bit of orchid fertilizer to your weekly watering regime and up to full strength from May to September.
Phalaenopsis flower buds beginning to form
It was often thought that low night time temperatures initiated flower spikes but recent research has shown this is not the case. Flower spike initiation is controlled by daytime temps of below 27 degrees C. If the temperature goes above 30 degrees C, flower spike formation will stop.
Flower spikes appear at the base of a leaf. You can tell it is a flower spike because they look like little mittens of the end of a short stalk and are not rounded at the tip like roots. It is a somewhat long process with the spike not elongating for three months and then the fat buds swell and bloom. During this time it is usually wise to provide a bamboo stake support for your flower stalk. Attach the stake to the stalk with an orchid clip or soft plant ties.
If you are very lucky you will see more than one flower spike appear!
Occasionally a baby orchid will appear on the flower spike as well. These babies are called keiki and are identical to the mother plant. Once the flowers stalk finishes blooming, trim the stalk back to about an inch or two above the keiki. Leave the keiki on the plant for about a year. Once this baby has two to three new leaves and its roots are two to three inches long you can separate it from the mother plant and put it in its own pot.
As you can see Phalaenopsis orchids are very easy to care for and it’s so exciting when you see that new flower shoot forming!
]]>With the holiday season behind us,now is the time to plan that new perennial bed you’ve been dreaming of! It may seem like a daunting task but take your time and follow these suggestions to help you achieve your garden goal.
First take some time and check out online perennial websites and gardening magazines for inspiration. Take note of what colors, textures and garden styles appeal to you.
Next don your winter jacket and take pictures of the new bed location from various angles. Print out a few copies of each picture. Study the pictures taking note of sun exposure, drainage, will it be viewed from one angle or all sides and shrubs and trees in the area. Deciduous shrubs and trees will be leafy in the spring and summer. Will they provide a lot of shade or non at all? An area is considered full sun if it receives 6-8 hours per day: part sun 4-6 hours; part shade 2-4 hours and full shade less than 2 hours per day. Do not be afraid to draw or write on the pictures. Use them as a drawing board to test out bed sizes and shapes; plant heights and colors.
While you are outside, do a rough measure of your bed area. A simple rectangle can provide a framework on graph paper, enabling you to play with bed shapes within that rectangle. An easy scale to work with is 1 sq. in. = 1 sq. ft. For the beginner, a bed size of 15 ft. x 6ft. (90 sq. ft.) is manageable. It is easier to add to your perennial bed in future years; much harder to size it down! Flowing, curving lines work best with bungalows conveying an informal style. Modern homes with strong vertical and horizontal lines may look best with those lines repeated in the landscape.
Once your bed shape is established, move on to the exciting part – the plants!
First choose a theme. Do you want to focus on a cutting garden with mixed colors, a cottage style look, or a drought tolerant bed with few flowers and more leaf texture? A monochromatic theme can be very pleasing with varying tones and shades of the same color.
Keep in mind that dark colors recede while light colors pop out.
Plant selection can be overwhelming. Narrow plant choices down to –
Pick out the perennials for our zone with the longest bloom time and a few with spring and fall bloom times to extend the season. If perennial bloom times overlap; even better! I like to use small shrub roses in sunny perennial bed designs. They provide exceptionally long bloom time well into fall.
Make multiple copies of your graph paper bed shape. Try your chosen plants out by placing them on the graph paper bed outline. Draw in light circles representing the mature width of your plants. Like perennials are most effective when grouped in odd numbers. Taller plants can be placed at the back of the bed or in the middle if being viewed from all angles.
As a final step create three rough color representations of your plan from spring to fall. This does not have to be perfect. Quick blotches of color on the graph paper will give you an idea if your bloom colors work and their placement for each season.
In spring lay out your bed shape with a rope or garden hose. The most important step of all is the soil preparation. Spade the area deeply adding compost, aged manures and quality topsoil. Once the plants are in place‘mulch’ the area every season with a 2 inch layer of compost around each plant.
Save your plan and your plant tags! Most of all take your time and enjoy the process. It’s a wonderful winter project!
Air plants are very versatile and can be used in any type of arrangement. These pumpkins are great for your table if you’re planning on hosting a holiday dinner or celebration this month. Don’t forget that air plants need to be soaked in room temperature water for 20 minutes every 3 weeks!
Another way to get into the Halloween spirit is to create tiny pumpkins planters for your indoor cacti. This temporary pumpkin planters adds some fun to an grouping of indoor plants in October!
This pumpkin is perfect if you need to make room for new succulents in your current pots. Use your excess succulents to decorate the top of a large pumpkin to make the perfect centrepiece. Carve out a small portion of the top of the pumpkin to make room for potting soil and your various plants!
Planting vegetables in pumpkins creates a beautiful seasonal (and simple) arrangement. Make sure to add 3-4 holes in the bottom of the pumpkin for proper drainage and keep the seeds to make roasted pumpkin seeds.
Grasses are a great option to consider if you’re looking to add some height to your fall arrangements. This Owl Pumpkin planter also has pinecone eyes and feet. This is a wonderful option if you’re looking to get the kids involved in crafting.
If you’re interested in creating a permanent display, you can use foam craft pumpkins and artificial plants. When using real plants, make sure to create a hole in the pumpkin just big enough to hold the existing plant container or the individual plants.
Get everything you need to create these stunning planters online or in-store at Floral Acres! Happy planting, and have a great October!
]]>Now Is The Perfect Time To Plant Trees And Shrubs For 2 Reasons:
We love how trees and shrubs can add texture, colour, interest, and height to a landscape. Here are our top picks for trees and shrubs in 2017.
Amanda’s pick is the Zone 5 Japanese Maple. The colour combined with the leave shape makes this maple a centre piece! When planting, look for a location that is sheltered from severe wind. For more vibrant reds and colour you will want to plant in higher light conditions but it is a good idea to avoid hot direct afternoon sun. Wintering will require heavy mulch and watering before the first frost, and covering with burlap over the winter is recommended, especially for the first 3 years. It is all worth it for a feature piece like the Japanese Maple, though.
Carmen suggests the Hot Wings Tatarian Maple. A tree that is rightfully named for the bright red seeds that show up in late summer. In fall the foliage is blazing with colour! This low-maintenance tree can adapt to both dry or moist conditions. Being drought-tolerant makes this tree a great choice for gardeners who like to conserve water or don’t get out to water often.
If you are looking to add interest and vibrancy, look no further! Priscilla and Toby love the colour combinations the bright foliage and flowers of the Spirea has to offer.
These beauties are hardy and extremely easy to care for. Plant in an area with well-drained soil and full sun to light shade for maximum growth and flowering. Add a layer of mulch to retain moisture and regular summer waterings will do the trick. Prune to the desired shape in spring or winter and you are good to go.
Jackie loves Tree Hydrangea!
This tree loves sun, but also likes afternoon shade. These beautiful flower clusters grow on the current year's growth, so it’s best to trim in winter or early spring. These flowers are great to bring indoors. Place fresh cuttings in a mason jar — simple yet stunning!
Marianne’s pick is the Mock-orange.
Blooming in June and known for their sweet jasmine fragrance, these hardy shrubs are a wonderful addition to any yard. Full sun is ideal for growth and flowering. Perfect to create hedges, privacy screens, or plant just one in a garden as a focal point or feature. This plant fills in quickly
Ideally, trees, shrubs, and perennials would be planted 4 weeks before a heavy freeze, but it’s ok to plant them as long as you can dig a hole.
Regular watering is specifically needed for the first 6 months. For fall planting, water right until the ground freezes and resume in the spring. After that, continue to water regularly for the first year. Fall planting also allows you to establish your trees and shrubs before the hot dry summer months when newly planted trees can be more vulnerable.
Mulch around the tree to help maintain moisture, add insulation for winter and avoid stressing the roots. A 5-inch layer should do the trick and save you watering in early spring.
Choose healthy plants that have been well taken care of through the hot summer months. Neglected trees will have stressed roots that may not be able to fully recover before going dormant for winter.
Using a tree water bag (pictured below) on large trees will also help maintain moisture.
We hope that you found this article helpful! If you have any questions about gardening or plants, give us a call at 1 (306) 382-7352 or visit us at 310 Valley Rd.
“Time spent amongst trees is never wasted time.” - Katrina Mayer
Happy Planting,
The Floral Acres Team