August In the Garden 2024
Many people view the month of August as the doorway that opens up into fall. Some even call it summer’s last stand. In the month of August (and in the past few years -September), there is still a lot of summer left to enjoy! And best of all, August is a time of harvest – vegetables, fruits, herbs, and cut flowers.
In your garden there are some necessary and beneficial jobs to do
As you harvest, pull weeds and immediately clean up any dead or diseased foliage. If diseased, do not compost. Many insect pests and diseases love to winter over on dead foliage left around the garden.
Stop fertilizing trees, shrubs and perennials by August 15. This reduces the amount of new growth that will only freeze off during the winter. You can reduce the amount of fertilizer given to container plants at this time of year as well but do still fertilize. Annuals such as petunias continue to flower into September if the weather co-operates.
Depending on the weather, deep water trees, shrubs and perennials at least once a week. New shrub, tree and perennial plantings need regular watering going into freeze up as they are forming new roots to see them through the winter. Annual planters are full of roots so do keep a good eye on their water needs; especially during hot, windy days. This is especially important for tomatoes – inconsistent watering is a big cause of blossom end rot.
Later in August, gradually move any outdoor houseplants into shadier locations. This prepares them to re-enter indoor plant life at lower light levels. The next time they need water, shower the whole plant down in the morning with a strong spray of water. Direct the spray upwards as well through the foliage. Many insects hide under the leaves. Let them dry off in the semi-shade.
After moving your houseplants indoors, Isolate them in a room all their own until you can be sure there are no unwanted insect pests hiding in the soil or in the leaf axils. Do not hesitate to give your indoor plants a shower every so often in winter – dust accumulates on the leaves rapidly when the furnace is on!
During August continue to add to and turn that compost pile! Also add a bit of fertilizer and water every two weeks. Do not water if it is an open compost pile and it rains periodically.
Keeping a garden journal is so important. It only takes a few minutes per day to record weather, rainfall, temperatures, heatwaves, frosts, pests, diseases and your growing successes! Also record seed starting, dividing perennials and anything else you can think of! Save your plant tags and include them in your journal. How did each plant do this year? And of course, pictures – the ultimate reference and record. This, above all, will remind you what did well and what did not. Create a map of your garden. Make several copies to have on hand when planning next spring’s garden.
As we near the end of August, you may need to divide some of your perennials that have finished blooming. (Avoid dividing blooming perennials unless absolutely necessary). Many new gardeners are hesitant to divide their perennials but it doesn’t hurt the plant. In fact, it is very beneficial!
Division, of course, multiplies the number of perennials that you can use to replace others in your garden or begin new beds. If you have too many divisions – give them to a neighbor/ friend, donate them to nursing homes that have garden beds or participate in a perennial plant swap. The Saskatchewan Perennial Society at the Forestry Farm is holding a Fall Plant and Seed Exchange Sunday, September 8 at 2 p.m. Please refer to their website for additional information.
The most important information about dividing perennials is to find out all you can about the perennials in your garden. Perennials have five different kinds of root systems – yes five! They are clump/offsets, surface roots, rhizomes, taproots and woody roots. Before this scares you off dividing your plants, do be assured the internet has many websites that contain charts on the best time and division method for Zone 3 perennials. You will also be happy to know that most Zone 3 perennials fall under the clump/offset root system category. Record this information in your journal!
The Obvious Question - How Do I Know If My Perennials Need Dividing?
The plant has crowded out other nearby perennials.
The perennial has totally stopped blooming or flower production is declining year after year.
The plant has lost vigor and the centre has browned and died out.
What Tools Do I Need to Divide My Perennials?
Gloves, pruners, scissors, watering cans, a sharp spade, a large serrated kitchen knife, paper towels or newspaper, compost or enriched soil for filling in holes and an empty bucket if you have to keep your divisions for one to two days. A wheel barrow to carry everything- it also makes a good work surface. If you are dividing large perennial grass roots, a machete or an old electric carving knife (only for the garden) is useful to have around. (I kid you not!)
Other handy tips to know about division are:
Do not divide perennials with taproots such as Baptisia, Butterfly Weed (Asclepias), Gas Plant ( Dictamnus), Baby’s Breath, and Russian Sage. Oriental Poppy also has a taproot but every five years or so, can be divided in summer after the plant goes into dormancy.
Divide autumn blooming perennials in spring of the following year.
Water the plants a couple of days before you do the actual division work. Watering softens up the ground for digging – a big help if digging up large perennials.
If you have a large garden with many perennial beds, use colorful flagging tape to mark the plants that need dividing.
After digging up a clumping perennial root ball, wash it off and check for pests and disease. Trim off any dead or diseased root growth. If you want to cut back the top growth, take off a minimal amount. Divide and move the divisions to their new locations.
Many root balls can be pulled apart by hand. Tougher root balls can be cut apart into halves or quarters. Make sure each division has some roots and top growth.
After digging up and dividing your perennials, fill the holes with compost or enriched soil. If you choose, plant one of the divisions back into this new soil.
Replant the rest as soon as possible or wrap them in wet paper towel or newspaper and let them rest in the shade. Plant as soon as possible after wrapping the roots. You can also vertically layer the different variety divisions in a large bucket with some loose soil to separate them. Water and set the bucket in the shade.
Plant any new divisions at the same depth they were in the ground. Water well and regularly until the ground freezes in early winter. Do not fertilize unless you want to use a transplant fertilizer only.
Leave some top growth on the new divisions until they have gone through a couple of hard frosts and die back. Prune dead leaves back to about 10–12.5 cm. (4-5 in.) tall as this will protect the crown or central growing portion of the plant during the winter.
Lawn
As the weather begins to cool off in late August, now is the time to dethatch and aerate. I can hear you say, “I just did that in spring!” Our lawns in Saskatchewan are made up of varieties of cool season grasses. The time to do some maintenance is in spring and August. The thatch layer is the dead grass that sits on top of the soil and if it is over 1.25 cm (½ in.) thick; it’s definitely time to dethatch. You can also over seed again, if needed, as cool season grasses in our area germinate and grow better in cool weather! Mix the seed with a handful of soil and a bit of sand. This will help distribute the seed evenly and helps to avoid applying too much seed which encourages detrimental overcrowding. Continue to water your lawn until the seed germinates. Afterwards keep your mower at the highest setting when cutting the grass. This helps to hold in the moisture. Recycle grass clippings by composting or leaving them on the lawn. Apply a fall lawn fertilizer later in the fall to strengthen the grass to face another winter.
Lawn grubs are plump white/yellowish beetle larvae that love to eat grass roots. In lawns and gardens in Saskatoon, grubs are most often the larvae of the June Beetle. June Beetles have a three year maturation period. The first year the grubs are most active in August and early September. The lawn may look thin and pale, and contain irregular brown patches. It may be soft, springy and the grass is easily pulled up in these areas. If you have lots of birds feeding on your lawn, you probably have grubs. June Beetles are attracted to lawns that are over-fertilized and lawns with a thick thatch layer. Combat June Beetles and their grubs by growing a healthy lawn. If you have grubs, apply non-toxic nematodes which are microscopic worms that eat grubs and can greatly reduce their numbers. There are many species of beetles and their grubs so do contact your local garden centre for available nematodes and what type of beetle grubs they kill.
Take full advantage of August in your garden. We bounce too quickly from season to season - slow it down and enjoy the rest of summer in Saskatoon.